Well I bought this to see if It would help me cut cabinet sides. And I discovered it does. Actually takes about 25 minutes per part. Not that bad actually.
But I think What I will have to do- is to keep my router in its sweet spot on work area and move the the ply wood instead. I noticed if I get too high or low then the router cuts wonky.
Tomorrow I plan on added a pulley weight system and to fine tune motor position. As my left motor seems a tad torqued out of line.
But the finish on the cuts I did on a kitchen island side were smoother than my table saw. Much less rip out… I do have to place them horizontally on the workarea as it cant cut something at 42 " without going wonky or falling off workpiece.
I need to build a sled hanger so I can move it out of way when loading plywood.
Congrats on your success! I remember something about the accuracy being higher the closer the chains are to 45 degrees to the beam. You might also check that the distance the beam is above the surface of the workpiece is consistent on both sides. Lower your sled to the bottom center of the sheet that you’re working on and measure from the chain to the work surface on both sides and where each chain attaches to the router sled. All four of these distances should be close to the same.
-John
Effective cutting area seems to be about 6 x 3 for me with a 10’ beam. There are installing with a 12’ beam, somewhat higher above the cutting surface that allow for a full 4 x 8 cutting area.
For the skirt hanger, I just screwed a hook with a short chain and a clip into the top beam right in the center, which helps with holding the sled when re-calibrating.
When I put in a new sheet, I just slide it under the sled.
for the sled hanger, I have a hole through the top ring mount and a screw with a
plastic sleave on it (to keep from fraying the paracord from the slack to my
weights) screwed into the top beam