That’s a lot of moment. Maybe not as part of the stock design, but perhaps I could give it a shot. I do have a drill press.
The more I think about it, the more I like threaded rods/bolts for the offset. But I think ot would need pre-made mounts (metal or pre-drilled chunks of wood to be glued/screwed to the top 2x4 of the frame)
With a drill press it’s not too bad, but I did find that ripping the edge off the short piece of 2x4 that I used did make it easier (mainly to stand the piece up, but also to be able to drill through without having to buy a special long drill bit).
But yeah, I wouldn’t want to do it by hand.
I have mine screwed into the vertical frame members and that seems to be working just fine.
a pre-made metal mount in a U shape might work without being overly complex/expensive.
Is this regardless of linkage kit? It just seems long to me.
3/4 inch backboard
1/2 foam spoilboard
3/4 inch sled
3/4 inch workpiece
X - height of linkage kit.
For the total to be 7-inches, X needs to be 4.25 inches. For 8-inches, X needs to be 5.25-inches. Am I calculating and understanding this correctly?
A lot of distance not movement
That should be the ballpark
3/4 for the big sheet
3/4 for the sled base
3-4 inches for the balance point on the sled
1/2 inch wasteboard
So a min of about 6 inches and easily in the 8 in range with a top heavy sled
is that how high the ring kit is going to be?
nm… i just looked much closer at the ring kit and realize its adjustable.
We aren’t requiring people to have a drill press.
Drill/driver, hand saw, tape measure is about it
no matter which kit, the chain needs to be at the balance point of the sled (± an inch or two) a sled with an external z axis will have more weight further from the sled, so the chains should be higher.
May need a hacksaw to size the threaded rod… Not sure if HD will cut one for you to size?
I would expect it tp be part of the kit
With the stock sled (no triangular setup) I have the chains mounted to the second to highest hole in the bracket with a 1/2" sled and that is about a half inch to an inch too low when the sled is on the 1/2" backer board. I plan to add an 1/4" spoil board and then the height of the work piece which will likely usually be either 1/2 or 3/4 stock, so that should put the chains right into the sprocket plane. Total distance is 5-1/8" from the framing member. If you added in a thicker spoil board and sled, then yeah, 6 inches easy.
Yeah, that was my point earlier
In the absence of a hacksaw, the extra could just extend out the back (or front if is avoided the chains).
In which case it would likely be sized appropriately
Yeah, I was thinking the distance was going to be shorter. I’d be worried with my original design to have the mount extended out that far from the beam.
And for those that are building from scratch or redoing their frame, get a hacksaw (they are cheap enough)…
Yeah, I think it’s a beam plus about 3 layers of 2x material
Can you describe what you are talking about? I think @bar would tend to shy away from more prefab’ed hardware (his call obviously).
Be cool if it was a scissor jack design
A pair of blocks of hardwood 3x3x2 with a 1/2 hole in it (ideally with screw holes) to glue to the top 2x of the frame.
Or a metal bracket. It may be that some earthquake/hurricane brackets will ‘just fit’
I was thinking a piece of U-channel with appropriate holes on all three legs. It would certainly make using bolts into the frame easier as they would go through the 1-1/2" dimension and then the legs of the U-channel would support the all-thread. However, using bolts through the frame, in any of the construction, adds the need for an additional tool (the right drill bit), making this list longer:
but screws could also be used to attach the brackets, perhaps with holes for both wood screws and optional bolts.
most hurricane brackets I’ve seen are stamped thin gauge metal. They’d be unlikely to stand up to the torque that a length of rod would put on them.
Remember that they only need to support 30-50 pounds at 8-10 inches of standoff
These are pretty low forces (although high vibration)
You could do a pair of u-bolts on each side, but that would be hard to align