🌞 New Stock Frame Design 🌞

one note on the top crossmember, without something of a fixed length at the top, you can’t square up the mcahine. The top bar could be that thing, but then you have to square the machine after you stand it up, and that’s areal pain compared to being able to square it while it’s (fairly) flat on the ground because when things are standing up, they don’t stay where you put them, and there’s no easy way to anchor things (put a weight next to the frame to hold it in place)

I had a ‘wings’ setup on my frame for a while, they were a source of trouble because they were insecure due to the leverage concentrated on the small attachment point. I settled on a 10’ bottom beam and find it more secure.

A beam across the back legs doesn’t add as much stability as bracing them from the aforesaid bottom beam would.

Bar is opposed to having a bar across the front.

did you just attach the wings to the legs? In this I extend them a bit and also attach them to the crossmember, which adds quite a bit to their strength

I refer to his diagrams which show the lower bar.

The ‘wing tip’ is still a weak connection, narrow and with the forces on the fasteners in their weaker direction.

I agree it’s not as strong as a solid piece of wood, but is this bad enough to have a full length beam and a crossmember in front of it and a couple inches down?

Just to add fuel to the fire… I posted this in another thread that devolved into discussing what to do with the crate of leftover quadrilateral brackets…


Hey, I got a new badge ‘First Onebox’ for that autogenerated link quotebox. Not sure how I did it, but I’ll take it.


I like using those brackets a lot more than drilling through the leg

Retrofitters already have a pair.

Haha we have a bunch of extra brackets, but not enough to send them to everyone :roll_eyes:

I just don’t like the sled running into it giving me little bumps in my lower cuts. I’m game for having a front cross brace as long as we can put it somewhere the sled won’t hit it

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Well, I’ll keep the design in mind when I work on a “retrofitters” design.

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Let’s make a list of sticking points where my version of your design is different than your version.

And let’s keep in mind that both designs are really yours at this point. My design was this monstrosity which required even more parts cut using the temp frame than the original design and which yall rightly (and very kindly) pointed out could be improved on:


At this point we are really really close to the same design:

There are three differences


These arms are different:


I haven’t proposed a solution for that yet, and I think this design works well.



This central bracing is different and the anti-racking braces are different. I really like the ani-racking bracing there. How are the ends of the central brace joined to the vertical 2x4s?


The way the cross brace is moved out from the frame is different.


This is the one I feel the most strongly about. When I tested the different methods I tested the arm with a second 2x4 on top of it which added quite a bit of strength. When I tested it as shown above I felt a little play. I also worry that the user gets to define what a 90 degree angle is here which could result in a difference from one side to the other while the bolt method uses only the factory edges so all you have to do is torque it down really tight and it will be square with no play at all

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if you have 3/4 ply, 1/2 wasteboard, 1/2 workpiece you are 1/4 clearance to the bottom bar

3.5" Blocks flat against the legs

If we go back to a solid front beam, this changes

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How do we ensure the builder drills perpendicularly into the 2x4? Is this a reasonable concern?

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Great question! The nice thing about the bolts is that is that it doesn’t matter. The bolt is only there to pull the two parts together, the factory surfaces of the wood provide the 90 degree reference. I think in the instructions we would recommend using a drill bit at least one size larger than the bolt. I drilled all my holes freehand without using any guides or making much effort to drill straight.


Do other people have issues with the sled running into the bottom bar? If it’s just me I’m happy to go back to it and just modify mine

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I’ve not had a need to cut through the bottom of a piece of plywood yet so it has yet to be a problem for me.

I start running into issues when the very bottom of the sled gets to the bottom of the sheet so 9 inches from the bottom, do you see that?


I’ll have to do diagrams to demo, but I disagree

I hardly ever run low on the sheet because my vacuum hose is fairly stiff and it can get in the way. I probably never ran to a point its a problem. Also, my sheets extend out over the lip… 3/4inch ply + 1/2 spoilboard + 3/4inch ply… all with some warpage :wink: So the beam doesn’t interfere if I did run it low.

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