🌞 New Stock Frame Design 🌞

I would go with a 3/8" bolt, it is easier for most people to find a drill bit slightly over 3/8 than it is for over 1/2" and 3/8" is way stronger than what is required.

hi !
I am planning to get a maslow too.
I live in Europe > Netherlands (English is not my primary language), forgive my rudeness.
The measurements are all in inches , and i want to buy my stuff at the local woodshop.
These two are common :

The 44x94 mm is a good replacement for your 2x4’ (38x39mm) ?
I will try to remodel ‘alternate 3’ in my tools that i understand.
Help would be nice :slight_smile:
What would be possible conversion problems with alternate 3 ?

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3/8-inch bolt with a 13/32-inch drill bit. Seems nominal.

I like the idea of doing a conversion… it would be some work though. Are those sizes common throughout Europe or just the Netherlands? (forgive my ignorance)

I am going my whole live to woodshops , but the only standard that i could find is , that ,if they sell a given size , that they will sell it in the next 5 years too. Hahaha :). Yeah the length is easily more standard. But yeah maybe better to not ask me. I will ask my friends tomorrow.

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I’m in the UK and built a studwall type frame using metric timber. I replaced the 2x4 with 38mm x 99mm, and found a load of bargain-bin studwork, which if I remember correctly was 38mm x 68mm.

I only used a malet, a handsaw (japanese pullsaw), a tape and a square, a chisel and a power hand drill.
I admit, it wasn’t the quickest build, but it went together well and is super ridgid - I can climb around on it.
I am in rental accom, so need it to be moveable. As such I didn’t glue it so that it could be taken apart again with a malet. In the end, to stop any potential of joints drifting open I went around and stuck a Kreg pocket hole on each of the joints to hold it fast, but doubt it really needed it.
I needed to use ratchet straps with the malet to drift the perimeter frame together.
It currently rests against the wall, but I’ve made three triangular supports for it also.
If you’d like the Sketchup file I’d be happy to send it your way, and to anyone else for that matter.


I’ve mentioned it before, but it is probably worth putting something on the build instructions about lumber selection. Nothing too verbose, but just some guidance to those not used to some of the lumber trade tricks; that time spent selecting good straight, stable lumber will save you time, money and heartache.

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This could be as simple as stating the measurements is both systems (and overriding the metric ones to get reasonably round numbers)

The only place a distance really matters is in the amount the kickers stick out from the front legs, everything else could easily be off by a 1/2" and not matter, so rounding things to the nearest cm should be no problem (need to double check that the top crossbar spacing is within the height of sheet goods), we just need to make sure that the cut list is reasonable

looking though the site, it looks like you have 330cm as a common size (just under 11’) and both 2x4ish (44x94) and 2x3ish (44x63) commonly available. I would seriously consider the 2x3ish for everything but the top beam, it will be plenty strong enough (2x3s are not as common in the US)

The idea is to use cheap stud material for the frame, so whatever that is in your area will work fine.

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Question on machine angle. The dimensions listed here result in a tilt-back of ~10 degrees.

Is this a good angle, or do we need it tilted back further?

Hi, i’m from belgium. The reason all our wood has these wierd, not rounded, sizes, sheets 1220x2440mm, beams of 44x94, and the beams come in 300mm increments ,… Is that they are actually inch sizes where they just stick mm labels on, so you’ll have no problem finding the correct sizes once you convert them from inches.


the world used inch sizes to build for a long time, and the lumber needs to match existing buildings, so most dimensions are just conversions (and the term “nominal dimensions” gets used a lot)

it looks like lengths are one place where things are rounded to nice numbers in whatever system (2’ increments in the US, 300mm lengths elsewhere)

When I was doing the drawings for my design, I really started to worry about where the CoG was when I had a 10 degree angle. There’s a lot of weight being put out to the front. Even if it doesn’t fall on its own, it will get bumped from time to time.

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How about making it adjustable? Shouldn’t be too difficult. I use 17 degrees.

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OT. Metric vs inch debates come up regularly, and in one I was told that it’s impossible to design anything in inches. Once I stopped laughing (it was online so they couldn’t hear) I asked a recent top of her class MIT architecture grad; MIT teaches in feet and inches.

Personally I think we went wrong when the Sumerian system was abandoned for everything except time. Too many standards, too many politics (of course this means french vs english around the time of the French revolution). At least the metric system is honest. I want the extra half inches I get charged for in my 2x4s


i tried to make it in 2x3ish (44x63mm) but it looks rather flimsy…

i will change it towards 44x94

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We started this discussion with an adjustable design and changed it because Bar wanted to go in a different direction

If you were to remove the kickers from this design (and put tabs under the center crossmember to hold your material), and include the optional rear crossmember, you could hinge the legs out to whatever angle you want (include some sort of rope/chain to keep them from going out too far)

but making it adjustable doesn’t address the problem of what the default should be.

I made it thicker towards 44x94.
I will try to share the project , but internet is slowwww today.


Pictures PLEASE!!! I really want to see this work of art!

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remember, the original frame was 2x4s weak side forward, so a 2x3 strong side forward is going to be stronger.

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These are images of the design I was working a few hundred posts back. You can see how the CoG at 10 degrees could be worrisome. 15 degrees is much more comfortable… hopefully comfortable enough. The pivot point is the back edge of the front leg. The motor and top beam is behind the pivot point at 15 degrees but not at 10 degrees. We should check this on the actual design, though.