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🌞 New Stock Frame Design 🌞

@Joshua That is great feedback! I think we want to have one recommended design (the one here) for the 80% of people who don’t want to make a decision at all but just want to follow the directions.

Great point about needing to give people information to make an informed choice. I’m not quite sure if we want to work that information into the descriptions of the alternative design options, if we want to make it a separate wiki page, or if we want to put it as a paragraph on the Choose a Frame Design page between the recommended design an the rest. We want to get the information across without cluttering the page up too much.

I will run through the build completely tomorrow following the directions as they stand and weigh in when I know what I’m talking about :grin:

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In the last post of the instructions with pictures (which was copied to


)

there are several steps with two pictures.

Madgrizzle and I are recommending the one with two crossmembers, but in the past
you have argued that one is enough (that the top beam provides enough support to
not need the other)

I think that the extra support, and ease in squaring the frame, and the extra
diagonal bracing make it worthwhile to just add the extra board (the verticals
are still going to be an optional step)

If the decision is that the default is two, then I will simplify the
instructions to only show that case.

If the decision is that the default is one, then I will duplicate the design
into two sets of instruction, the minimal single-crossmember, and the advanced
with two crossmembers.

David Lang

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I think you just found the topic for the guru corner in the initial mom issue
:slight_smile:

and then that content can be added to the ‘which frame design’ page

David Lang

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I would suggest building it the first time with the blocks for the top
crossmember, but without putting it in place (and don’t glue the diagonals). Go
all the way through the step where you stand the machine up (including standing
it up :slight_smile: )

then lay the machine down, remove the diagonals, add the top crossmember and go
on through the steps (squaring it up, adding the diagonals, which you can glue
this time, etc) and finish the machine

I would add glue as you go, but not bother waiting for it to dry. The only place
I would consider waiting for the glue to dry would be on the top beam supports,
and I would try to let the glue dry before running the machine.

Also, please provide info on the new chain layout (how it’s supported,
tensioned, etc). I posted a couple comments that I think we can eliminate the
stretchy cord entirely and have a couple weights down the back of the machine.

the problem with the current approach is that it needs the most tension when
there is less chain fed out from the motors, but that’s the point where the
current approach provides the least force.

weights would require a little bit of effort to route the cord to the weights,
but would provide constant force.

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Fantastic! I will pick up lumber tomorrow morning and build following your advice and instructions.

Is it OK if I put the pictures and text on the wiki so that I can make notes or edits as I go? I think we are close enough at this point that it’s more about refining the instructions than it is about making big design changes like we have been in this thread.

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you are free to do anything you want with anything I ever post (and this includes the onshape document)

I would love to have pictures of each step instead of the diagrams that I created and @madgrizzle has been coloring. If you can, take a picture of each step to show exactly what you are doing.

If you have any questions about why something is done a particular way, feel free to contact me (I’ll send you my phone number via PM so you can text or call)

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I have the text in the wiki at https://github.com/MaslowCNC/Mechanics/wiki/Feb-2018-Frame Hopefully that will save you some typing :slight_smile:

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Great! Thank you!

I agree that photos would be best and I will take them as I go through the process :+1: :+1:

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Good… I was dreading the coloring task as the workflow is terribly inefficient. I contemplated printing them all out, giving them to the twins to color with crayons, and then scanning them :slight_smile:

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From Bar’s edits to the wiki page ( Feb 2018 Frame ) it looks like he decided on the two crossmember approach (he has removed most of the text for the single crossmember option, I removed the last bit)

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I haven’t been around for a while but I’m still running on my original temp frame. Where can I find the lumber/cut list for https://github.com/MaslowCNC/Mechanics/wiki/Feb-2018-Frame ?

cut%20list

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This is what I’ve done so far.
Leg holes were drilled on an incorrect position so the front panel will have to come out again.!
A beam and small wheels are missing still, in the legs.
IMG_20180304_123009609|666x500

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Hey, guys…new here…just starting to look at building my Maslow, and I may wait a bit; 'cause I’m really excited about the other designs (esp. the folding one with wheels!)
I don’t know if this is the right place for Instruction comments, but if not…please either move it, or let me know!
So…on the Default Frame Assembly Guide:
1: What are the bricks for? (They aren’t mentioned anywhere else but the Materials list)
2: Step 9-10, Can you include a “pre-install” picture of the relationship between the Beams & the Top Bar? (neither of the pictures included are clear about that relationship)
3: You might make a note (on all of the Builds that use Plywood) to either only attach the Plywood at the Edges, or countersink the screws significantly (you’ll be cutting into the base material at some point, whether by accident or by design…and you don’t want to hit a screw!)
4: A suggestion to add a 4" (10cm) “strip” at the bottom of the material holder legs, for the work material to sit on. This would allow closer cuts towards the bottom without crashing.

Another Hardware question: Regarding the weights; I read the Chain Sag concerns…what is a reasonable max weight to use on the sled; and does the “hang-over” of the bricks contribute to the stability? (I have access to actual Counterweight material and a forge, and was thinking of pouring a curved weight to match the sled.)

Thanks in advance, and sorry if I got this in the wrong place!

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@PaulDeLisle

Welcome to our group.

The bricks add weight to pull the router into the face of the workpiece.

This is not my design so I will leave that to one of the folks working on the design. @bar is making a page for this build.

@bar has plowed right through screws with no bad results I would not deeply countersink screws. If you a really concerned us dowels and glue.

The design are open for modification try adding the “Strip” let the group know how it works for you - other may follow suite.

I believe the max weight we have seen work is ~40lbs or 3 Stones. Most are lighter then this. The weight is sort of arbitrary 2 bricks - the generalization is ~5 lbs or 1/3 stones per brick. I have said if I were making a custom system I’d make it variable. I’ve been leaning to a water based weight myself.

Thank you

@PaulDeLisle

That is excellent feedback! Thank you. I am about to update the default frame instructions today and I will work in your suggestions. Keep in mind that the pages are wiki pages so you can edit them too if you are logged into github.

The bricks are for the sled, I just mentioned them there because I didn’t want people to forget them and have to go back to the hardware store.

I have run my router through a couple of my screws :grimacing: without it being an issue, but I also do just screw the sheet on at the edges where I am less likely to hit them and I will add that to the instructions.

There hasn’t been a huge amount of experimentation about what the optimal weight configuration is, but if you find a better one let us all know!

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I am running 16.4 kg (~ 36.15581 lbs) and there is one heavier then me. We are exploring the maxes right now. To be on the safe side, be 5kg (~11.0231) lower for the start. Welcome to the Team. Your feedback is highly appreciated.

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I might make a mold and pour a concrete weight or weights to better fit the sled profile.

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Pictures! Gas or electric? Wonder if Mrs Moose could be convinced it’s a necessary part of Maslow building

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@gero Are you experiencing any undue strain/stress on the Sprocket motors at 16kg?
I want to minimize the Chain-sag, but I don’t want to burn out the motors, either!
(decisions, decisions! :dizzy_face: )