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🌞 New Stock Frame Design 🌞


#863

I agree with @dlang about end grain fixing. When doing structural calculations you are not allowed to use any fixings in end grain (well you are allowed to epoxy bolts) ! If we are not going to have a structural base board then blocks and corner braces are essential.


#864

Have you guys ever tried pocket hole screws. I get a great grip into end grain. Dowels could also work. Just simply drill through the joint, throw in some wood glue and tap the dowel in place. Add a screw to clamp it until the glue dries.


#865

I have used pocket screws, you don’t drive them into end grain, you drive them
into the side grain of the other board.

but we don’t want to require a pocket hole kit to build the maslow

dowels can work, but they take a lot of effort (and some experience) to get
right

they are also slow.


#866

I agree in keeping with the spirit of the original Maslow goals, being able to build this with limited resources, pocket holes should not be a requirment.

But if you happen to have a pocket hole jig, in your tool arsenal, why not? it looks like there are opportunities in the new frame to use it.
I have had great results using the Kreg Pocket Hole jig R3. Mostly in sheet goods (modular closet system, etc.), but I also built there 2x4 workbench with it and it and it is rock solid. Just be sure to drill you pocket holes with the proper grain orientation. Kreg also now make a Heavy Duty jig for 2x4 projects that utilized larger square drive screws.


#867

These are just optional ideas. I made the pantorouter by Matthias and I can use it to do mortise and tenon. But I agree with keeping it as simple as possible and cheap too.


#868

I agree but the whole purpose of the frame is to hold your sheet for cutting and be stiff. I screwed my frame together with 3" construction screws two in each end. I do not have any corner braces, I plan on screwing down a 1/2" sheet of OSB, and I stood in the middle and had no problems, did saw a bit due to my weight but no problems with the screws pulling out.


#869

Hello,
To let the chains run along the top bar.
What setting do I need to change in ground control in order to let my motors run the other way?


#870

With the development master versions (v1.06) of GC and the firmware, you’ll find a setting on the Advanced page ‘Side of Motor Sprockets That Chains Go to Sled’. ‘Top’ is the standard way, ‘Bottom’ would let you store the chains along the top beam.


#871

The problem isn’t when you stand on it, it’s when the machine racks a tiny bit
and the screws rip out the end grand and are now loose, which thenmakes it more
likely to rack more…


#872

I am going to screw down a sheet of OSB and once I do that there is little chance that the screws will pull out or there will be any chance of racking or sagging. Pretty much like all the walls of your house or garage, until they are sheeted you have to support them to keep them squre.


#873

some people want to use sheets of foam instead of OSB/plywood as their
wasteboard, so not everyone will have the OSB sheet.

I agree that if you screw down a sheet of wood, the diagonals aren’t needed, and
if you are screwing to both the crossmember and the legs, you can get away
without the blocks (assuming the frame holds together until you screw down the
sheet


#874

I am planning on using a 1/2" OSB with 1/2" foam for a sacrificial backing which is only a 1/4" more than the original 3/4" plywood which shouldn’t impact the depth for the motors much at all.


#875

You could take the 2x4 frame piece (that the plywood attaches to) and notch it out. I have done this in the past by setting the fence up the distance I need to take out. Move the board past the cut and raise the saw until it plunges through. Then push the board to the other cut line. Then I use a jig saw to cut to my line.


Does anyone sell pre-cut parts for frame?
#876

It sounds like we are absolutely going to have a number of community designs in addition to the one which we are recommending (the one being hashed out here) and we’re starting to see a lot of people asking for instructions. Linking to forum posts seems messy so I’ve put together a wiki page which shows all the designs side by side to make it easy for people to choose. It’s a work in progress, but check it out here:


#877

How long until we can get images inline with the instructions? They’re kinda tough for me to follow without them


#878

they are inline on the forum posts, just not on the wiki page.

I was holding off until we could get a decision on one crossmember vs two.


#879

Refresh my memory on where they would be?


#880

bottom crossmember is a given, but the top crossmember is the one in question.


#881

@bar,

I agree with this post completely. I think it was a necessary step. However, I would like to provide one recommendation. Rather than focusing on the designs themselves, focus on the information needed to decide upon a design. Another way of thinking about it is: focus on the information needed to successfully design your own frame. For the frames listed, you have done that in several ways: provide a list of cost, build-time, etc.

There are several ways to do this. One is a decision tree. It could be formatted like a series of questions. Would you like to hang the Maslow on a wall: if yes, this; if no, that. Do you need to cut to the absolute corners of the 4x8 sheet: if yes, this; if not, that. What are your precision requirements? What are your space limitations?

Here is another thought. Many decisions have been made in this thread. Most of the decisions were highly subjective, dependent upon use-case, or specific constraints. Look at the the factors that were weighed in making the decisions. Consolidate them, so that individuals have background to make their own decisions.

Another idea is: try to identify all the failure modes or design constraints that have been identified so-far. Try to consolidate the information as a list. This could contain things like: the top-bar family of frame designs is preferred because it is stiffer and is more precise; a full-length bottom bar is not preferred because it prevents the Maslow from cutting the very bottom of the sheet; etc.

I understand that these kinds of comments can be difficult to meaningfully act upon, or prioritize against other activities. I just provide them as ideas and suggestions. Hopefully they help.


#882

@Joshua That is great feedback! I think we want to have one recommended design (the one here) for the 80% of people who don’t want to make a decision at all but just want to follow the directions.

Great point about needing to give people information to make an informed choice. I’m not quite sure if we want to work that information into the descriptions of the alternative design options, if we want to make it a separate wiki page, or if we want to put it as a paragraph on the Choose a Frame Design page between the recommended design an the rest. We want to get the information across without cluttering the page up too much.

I will run through the build completely tomorrow following the directions as they stand and weigh in when I know what I’m talking about :grin: