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🌞 New Stock Frame Design 🌞


With the a top beam design, the problem becomes “what happens when the sled goes
off the edge of the plywood”

This is why you see people talking about building skirts for their machines.

David Lang


there should be no problem with 19" above the frame, we did find that if you get
down to 15" or so you have problems.


So, I finished my redesign of the default frame with panel cart. I added switches and outlets. The left switch is for the light and Arduino/Maslow boards. The right is for the router/shopvac. I have one plug on the far left that’s always powered. It also has two USB ports built in. I plan to use one for a Raspberry Pi, once I figure out how to get it to work. I’ll be adding an arm and VESA mount for a 13” HDMI TV I have for the MasPi (@bar should trademark that)

Lessons learned:

  1. Just because you modeled it, doesn’t mean you built it right. (The old, measure twice, cut once thing)
  2. I really dislike MDF.
  3. Being familiar with electronics is not the same as being familiar with wiring electrical outlets. (Blow the breaker with the WiFi and everyone hates you, especially the six year old with a Netflix addiction.)
  4. Troubleshooting is more valuable than anything.
  5. Just because you measured the plywood thickness, doesn’t mean your program will cut through the MDF.
  6. A well calibrated machine will do wonders.



Could you point me to the discussion about the problems when your motors get to around 15" offset? I am just above 15" in my setup. Thanks in advance.


I’m not sure if it was in this thread, on the discussion of Bar building the new stock frame, or in PMs as I was working with bar building it.

His first couple of attempts at the new stock from (after post 700 or so) moved the kickers so instead of the top being 10.5" from the bottom of the legs, he had the bottom of the kickers at the 10.5" mark. In addition, he moved the top beam from being on top of the beam supports to having it on the end of the beam supports.

This made the distance from the top of the work area to the motors 7" shorter than designed and even with the extra room I had left to let you use unistrut (1 5/8" tall instead of 3.5" tall for a 2x4), this just didn’t work at all near the top of the workpiece. Extending the legs to be several inches taller made things up past the 18" mark and things work again


So one problem I had with the new stock frame design was that the upper corner of the back legs protruded beyond the front plane of the frame

, such that it would warp the material being cut. I used a hand saw to trim the corner flush, but it makes me wonder if I did something wrong? Some of the early photos show this corner protruding above the 4 ft. material height, so that its not a problem. Perhaps the dimensions got changed along the way? If its not just me, then its something worth solving in the design – perhaps cutting the corner off when cutting the pieces.

One other small note for the instructions was that I mounted the top cross bar backwards, Maybe it would be worth noting that between step 8 and 9, the frame is flipped over so that the top bar protrudes forward. Its clear in the pictures when you know what to look for, but when I was doing it for the first time, I got it wrong and had to reverse it (doh!). No big deal though.

Other than these two small notes, the frame went together easily and seems to be solid so far!

working great otherwise.


you either need to trim the corner off (as you did) or put the screw near the
front so it doesn’t swing forward.

trimming the corner off is the easiest thing as far as I’m concerned.

David Lang


I started with the new frame with a 10’ 2x4 top beam and changed it to unistrut. I changed the two 8" beams such that the unistrut now rests on top instead of attached at the end of the 7"/8" members. I want to slide the unistrut in and out based on the work surface thickness. I currently use large C-clamps to hold the beam in place but have found that it is hard to get the unistrut to sit square because the sled twists the assembly. I apply a twisting force in the opposite direction with my hand but I is really hard to get the clamp tight with only one hand free. Has anyone changed to unistrut and how did you attach it to the wooden frame and did it have sliding capabilities to facilitate different work surface thicknesses?


Getting ready for winter I just hung my new stock build frame on my garage wall. I would suggest if you’re considering this consider making the spacing of the legs line up with your studs better than it does as designed. I just used a chunk of 3/4" (18mm) plywood lag screwed to the wall.


the leg spacing was not made with stud spacing being a consideration, it won’t
hurt to adjust them to match your wall.

David Lang


Yeah I know I was mostly posting the note for future builders who might think maybe I want to hang it, that they might want to match stud spacing. I decided on the easier build a header on the wall option, but if I were building again I’d align to stud spacing.


I’m finally getting around to building the default frame for my Maslow.
After looking at the assembly instructions, I noticed that the parts list has 2 full sheets of plywood.
Why is that?
One full sheet will be placed on the machine for supporting material being cut, I get that.
Does that mean the other entire sheet is just for the sled?


sled as well as a sheet to practice on :slight_smile:


Just new and waiting for my kit to arrive (in Australia) I can’t seem to find the final plans of the new stock frame… where should I look?


Welcome to the Forum!
Take a look here


Also Need to get that into the Discourse Wiki.


I am thinking of building a Maslow frame onto this storage rack in place of the panel saw. I’m not sure what design to go with but like the top beam. This rack is already 8’ long with lumber hanging out both ends so 12’ should be workable. I might have to beef up the casters for the extra weight but it will be mobile, provide storage and is pretty damn solid. I just ordered my kit for January shipping.


I’m also looking at the idea of an MDF spoilboard based on what they use for a bed type CNC. The idea being that you have places to clamp material or use bench dog style holding jigs. This is from and they have Fusion 360 file with parametric measurments. Any thoughts? I wont get my Maslow until January so I have lots of time to plan projects…


Those clamps you see holding the piece will interfere with the movement of the sled over the work surface. Most people just use screws or something to hold the piece to the spoilboard.


If you want a clamping system, you would do better with one that grips the edge of the work piece and doesn’t sit proud (i.e. sticking up) of the workpiece. Something like this: