If you are cutting individual pieces that a bigger than 5x3’ then I would recommend making the top horizontal frame piece 12’, getting longer chains (2’ longer each side), and using sled weight around 20Lbs. The stock frame dimensions just does not give big enough tension on the chains to make precise cuts within 1’ from left, right and bottom, of 8x4 work area.
Take you time calibrating and try to get the best measurements you can for the calibration. I used a laser measure to get good results.
Start small before cutting a big project. Run test pieces to make sure that: squares are square, circles are perfectly circular, and holes are big enough to interlock. If your calibration is off you may get ovals and slightly rectangular squares. This is critical when building furniture that has interlocking parts where 1/16 makes a big difference. It is a lot harder to widen holes after they are cut and get good results. You are better off modifying the CAM setup to make holes 1/32 oversize then filing / sanding/ re-routering.
When laying out interlocking furniture pieces try to keep them oriented in the same way as they will be assembled. This may not be effective for using minimal wood but greatly improves the chance that parts will fit together correctly as any calibration deficiency will be applied equally in the same direction.
You will probably in the least need to apply:
Cheap fixes for z-axis slop on the Ridgid R22002
Or build a better z-axis:
Z-Axis upgrades Consolidation
The Meticulous Z-Axis