it will probably be allright safety wise. Mostly i’m still not seeing the use of it, adding a guide rail to the maslow to easily cut panels manually is something i might do after a while, but i don’t see myself gaining back the time i would put into making it. Unless just making it is the goal by itself, in which case my point is invalid.
If you have a unistrut top beam, creating a T bar that slides in that and can
guide a handheld saw on a sled seems like a fairly quick and trivial build
making one that clamps to a top beam (wood or metal) seems even easier 
I ment the time it would take to automate it, the manual part is indeed an easy build.
Though making it so the guide clamps 100% square all the time could be tricky
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This could be an alternative to brics and to have a full vertical frame?
That’s job security. I’m a paramedic…
Radial saws, too. I bought a table saw because ripping on the radial saw was also a source of excitement. That’s why the manual says don’t stand behind the work. Never be the patient…
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It’d be just as easy to push the saw by hand.
I like the concept, and you could rotate the sheet to vertical and cut the narrow way too. For a full sheet 6’ becomes 2’ (8 foot sheet for the metrified so 8 minus 2; don’t know what stock sizes are elsewhere)
The thought process was that the chains would keep the sled at the correct height as it moves it horizontally. You could rotate the sled/saw vertically and again, let the chains move the saw. This way you don’t have to lock down any thing down and let MaslowCNC manage the measurements. You might get by with only 8 v-rollers if you but I think 16 would be best.
If you are going to setup a full set of rails, then you should switch to COREXY kinematics rather than the maslow kinematics, no calibration needed.
but that’s a pretty different machine.
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They’re the same here, 1220 by 2440 mm.
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1220 x 2440 doesn’t roll off the tongue as well as 4x8. 1200 x 2400 sounds a lot more sensible and easier to set standard sizes like a 16 x 36 meter shop building
it would be more sensible, but i just ment that our sheets are the same size as yours and once you cut of the sides that are always damaged in transport you end up with 1200x2400. We also have other sizes available, but those are most common.
Actually, a lot of stuff is in wierd metric sizes here because it’s converted from inches. Almost all pipes and tubing for instance. Also most woodworking related stuff, 2x4’s are just 50 x 100 here. The positive thing is, if you take a mm of, it doesn’t become a wierd fraction in metric, i really don’t see what is practical about 5 37/64"
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I am in America and was brought up on an Imperial measuring system. I worked in Imperial measurements until I got my first laser cutter. I learned when I was doing files for cutting to lay them out in Metric. That is when the “other” system they taught us as an aside, Metric, made sense. In fact so much sense I abandoned Imperial measurement all together.
I was in a forum for a while for a home hobby laser cutter. A large number of the users we old machinist. They all struggled with “metric”. " I don’t do metric."
It is a gap and it is not easy to convert. I keep charts handy. I work with both between laser cutting, 3D printing, 3D design, because customers provide what they have. For the record, if you wrap your head around it metric is much easier to work with in the end. Still I go to get a Sheet of plywood here in the US - 3/4 inch is now 23/32 - 4x8. I’m sure due to some legal action. 18mm just seems easier to me.
Thank you
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Stumbled across this! when doing some Amazoning just now.
It may or may not make a good add-on to the Maslow for those thinking panel saw. Maybe one could strategically place a piece or two of “heavenknows” to pick up on the slots under the track to secure and align it for panel cutting. Or just use the clamps if you’re not planning on using it as a panel saw as often as a CNC router.
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Metric/English is only confusing if you can do arithmetic in your head. To the calculator only set it’s just another button.
37/64 rounds off to 9/16, 9/16 heavy if you’re being more precise. And since that’s the nut for the ubiquitous 3/8-16 bolt it’s a hair more than a 3/8 nut which are pretty much everywhere. Nothing difficult.
I decided to go the Unistrut thanks to bdillahu and the others that came before me. I went the larger size strut though out. My local Lowes was useless, I did find Unistrut at my local Ace and their sister store in another town not too far away. I found three 10ft pieces and nine four foot pieces. So I had to use the 4 hole join plates. Use the plates got me to thinking how I could break this down to much more manageable size and if I took it apart it could fit in the back of my suv. I haven’t done it, but I was thinking of cutting the frame, the backboard and bottom support rail in half and use the the 4 hole join plate to reattach the frame back together. This would enable the maslow to be easier to transport should I want to take on the road.
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I don’t have a calculator, or the need for one in my shop. and rounding to 1/16 is 1.5 mm, that’s not good enough for me.
lots of brands have it, look up plunge saw or track saw. from festool to cheap store brands, i have a makita sp6000 and after my drill it’s the second most used tool in my shop.
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I was aware of the Festool. I’ve had my booger hooks on one before. I was surprised at how inexpensive it felt compared to its asking price. This was the first one I saw within my price range. I’ll keep googling with your two search terms to see what else I find. I have a couple homemade saw boards for my corded and cordless saws, but these are a lot nicer for sure.
Having gone for the stud wall type wooden frame, I’m impressed by the rigid nature of it, but it’s definitely a semi-permanent workshop feature. This I feel is straying a little from the ethos of Bar’s original design (?) in that it’s getting bigger, bulkier and more expensive. Once I’ve got mine running I think I spend a little time looking at what can be cut to make a strong, rigid and lightweight frame, that can easily be broken down and put in the back of a van or pick-up. I’m a huge fan of clever joinery, such as Japanese joints that don’t require glue or fixings. To have a slot-together, site-ready Maslow would be awesome, and definitely a tea break talking point!
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Is the back board supported by the A frame in the last photo? If so, how is that and the back board tied in to the unistrut?
Does anyone have ideas for attaching skirts around the 4’x 8’ work area in a way that allows easy changing for different media thicknesses? Are there other ideas for keeping a skirt level with the work surface?