Anybody know where there are plans for this design? I’ve started to sketch it out, but figure I should just ask first. There are a few members with similar looking frames, seems to have originated with rexklein, on the old forums, which don’t seem to exist anymore?
I am interested in having it 12 feet long, since for kayaks I need to puzzle joint long pieces together. Also interested in a Unistrut frame stand for it, no room for a wall mount. I’d build the whole thing out of Unistrut, but prices are really expensive.
Hey, this is the design I was referencing in one of my recent posts. This is what I used as inspiration to build a permanent frame first, instead of going through the temp frame process. I used my own judgment and changed/added many things but its still basically this frame.
From what I remember there was a purchase list for this but the point of it was to be able to buy all the lumber in store bought lengths and slap it together without really needing to cut/plan much. The picture is all that’s really needed as far as directions. you can make guesses on locations because it can all be adjusted in calibration.
As pictured I believe the purchase list is:
<100 screws
4qty of 10 foot long 2x4
3qty of 8 foot long 2x4
2qty of 8 foot long 4x4
1qty of Full 4x8 foot sheet 3/4 inch thick
4qty of 1x1 foot sheet 3/4 inch thick
I didn’t use 4x4s but I did use more 2x4s as vertical supports, It is stiff and sturdy. keep in mind this is just leaning on a wall. I ended up making it an A-frame with more lumber and put it on casters, because moving that thing by myself got old fast.
You should be able to get 12 foot lengths at lowes or HD. I do believe you will need extra chain for the larger frame though
That is a varient of a top beam frame, as shown, it probably doesn’t have the
motors out far enough from the frame for the chains to be parallel to the
workpiece.
the frame is something that holds the workpiece, and holds a beam with the
motors on it in the right position.
Ill have to take some current pictures to show its updated looks and “features”, but I was able to find a picture of how it turned out right after the initial build that mimicked this style. A lot has been added to the frame but what you see in the picture is still the “face” of my “Maslow Easel”.
Instead of plans, I would ask for successful motor distances, height motor to work sheet, tilt angle, total sled weight and then cut it the way you want
Edit: I forgot the options on chain mount systems.
see the spreadsheet that we just created, it will let you tinker with motor
distances, height and sled weight.
Tilt we don’t have good info on. you want it as near vertical as you can get (to
minimize friction) while still having enough force to be able to drill down
reliably.
On 8° with ~ 17kg/ ~37.4782 pounds (lbs) sled weight is not is enough to keep the bit in on the down part.
Increasing the tilt angle without reducing weight increases friction.Triangular gives us different balance of the sled on the side view of X axes depending on if we are at the top or down. To minimizes calibration errors current situation is to balance the sled at X0/Y0.
None of this is claimed to be true. To be fair a drunk opinion.
Tried twice but in wrong state of mind, Will get it in a different mood.
Let me clarify (I am awed that you guys are even talking about my frame.)
It is 8x10
I chose 8' because it's enough and most people have at least that much space.
you need the 12" gap at the bottom for many reasons power, vacuum and most of all for easier loading of material
The 4x4 worked great for rigidity but also they gave me a better surface connection area and allow for future mods.
The ears are a must the motor mounts are slotted and just calibrating they were moving. The ears solve it completely I just aligned the chain to the correct sled holes. 3rd one up (for mine).
I am not sure that the height of the motors is the best but as you can see that is easily changed .
Tilt I think that the tilt is gonna vary based on the sled and job and a whole host of other reasons.
I had a lot of plywood from the second sheet left to make a @Bar approved sled. My take away is this might not be “the approved model” but as a newbie I would be ge tting what I thought I signed up for which is a machine that cuts a circle (pretty close anyway) on my first run.
I was wondering if anyone had separated the motor beam from the frame like that. In looking at some of the pivoting frames the bar was either attached to the frame or at least mounted to the wall at the pivot point. You have clear separation. You were able to adjust the chain plane parallel to the work surface ok?
I like it, your wall construction looks like my two car garage, except I have two cars, and a ton of stuff in there, and previous owners have all kinds of shelves mounted everywhere. I’m trying to see what I can move.
Here is another pic with the whole system.
The 2X4 is twelve feet long.
Everything has been measured precisely. (a laser light would be helpful to align the motors.
The motors must be at the exact same height to create a perfect triangular shape with the sled. The chains must align with the motor sprockets.
“>Any progress?”
Not sure if that was directed to me, but I did private message a few people before posting this thread, and one person responded two days ago, that he is disassembling his rexklein style frame, as he can’t get straight lines at the top, and is going with one of the more standard builds. Kind of makes me nervous.
I’m redrawing a couple of other non-standard builds with skirts, to see what grabs me (commonthings Unistrut frame, rbodelon’s frame with blind rollers, the one on www.summet.com only to modify the rexklein frame into a cart). I have room between the two cars in the garage, but otherwise have a space problem. Casters seem to be necessary.
Also I peaked at the spreadsheet, so thanks to the people that mentioned that.
I would tend to think that if a design can mimic the standard frame, as far as width of bar, distance to top of sheet, distance of chains above work area, that I can build a frame that can accommodate skirts, and install a standard length bar now, then move the motors out later, once I order new longer chains.
BetterBuilds, have you been able to calibrate ok, how is the accuracy at other than the center of the ply?
Not sure if that was directed to me, but I did private message a few people
before posting this thread, and one person responded two days ago, that he is
disassembling his rexklein style frame, as he can’t get straight lines at the
top, and is going with one of the more standard builds. Kind of makes me
nervous.
not getting stright lines at the top can be a few different things, if they hook
moving towards the corners, that’s trying to move too fast, which can be either
a power supply problem or a motors too low problem
I have room between the two cars in the garage, but otherwise have a space
problem. Casters seem to be necessary.
did you ever look at my ‘alternate 2 frame’ that used two wheels and folds flat?
I would tend to think that if a design can mimic the standard frame, as far as
width of bar, distance to top of sheet, distance of chains above work area,
that I can build a frame that can accommodate skirts, and install a standard
length bar now, then move the motors out later, once I order new longer
chains.
note that you can add a skirt to the standard frame at the bottm trivially, put
two 6" wide pieces of plywood together at a 90 degree angle, cut slots in one
and bolt it to the bottom of the bottom crossmember and adjust it out to match
the thickness of your workpiece (the other piece is the skirt)
That’s why the bottom crossmember is flush with the bottom of the workpiece
It would have been much easier (and stronger) to mount the crossmember across
the back of the legs, but by putting it between the legs like we did, we set
things up to support a bottom skirt like this.
I have been able to calibrate just fine. But I’m still running my temporary sled with the original L brackets as chain mounts, which is probably the least accurate sled option. I get prefect circles in the middle, but a slight skewing towards the top/far corners that is obviously from the lack of movement on my far from perfect quadrilateral setup.
I’m waiting on my ring kit to build my final sled, hoping to rid the skewing effect. I haven’t done as large of cuts as you are looking to do. I typically slide my cut sheet left or right to keep the sled near the middle. Once I get my final sled built and re-calibrated ill start a thread about my whole setup.
