I do hope we have the option to use metal ruler for auto z that we had on the old Maslow. So easy!
Absolutely, the Aux connector is on the board and ready to connect
For anyone who wants clarification basically you can connect clip leads one to the router bit and one to a something thin and metal (like a ruler for example) and Maslow will lower the z-axis until it detects that the router bit has made contact with the metal for automatic z-axis zeroing.
TimS, please tell me how it worked. I am still waiting for my first maslow. The maslow4. Love the accuracy that 4 belts ought to provide. Years ago tried building cheap china cnc but gave up. Trying again.
Two alligator clips coming off the circuit board. One alligator clamp on the bit and one on a metal ruler. The software has a auto zero function that will stop and zero the z axis when continuity is sensed from one alligator through the ruler/bit to the other alligator.
Oh. Now it makes sense. There is a 2 port plug Bar said that can be used for that function. But I think a flat plate of metal might work easier. I think something like a spring with ball bearing on sled to one side oh the circuit, a d a wire with a lug to one of the bolts on the bottom of the router. Would do away 2kth alligator clips. Just drive. Maow off side or plate somewhere out of way and calibration can be checked anytime. Ballwould act like bl point pin. To make contact with metal and bit through lug the other. What do you think
I can see it being used that way after changing bit and before belts are retightened however. Must be what he was saying. Then I can see clip on bit and something flat like ruler or 6" sq aluminum plate. Anything larger than the hole in the sled. Then unhook wires pull plug to stop shaft rotation and then proceed to shortening belts.
making a connection through the bearings of the router is not reliable, and you
use a lot of different bit sizes, so you really want to connect to the bit if
then the plate you connect with can be anything, having a small piece of metal
in an L shape that you can slip behind the sled, do your touchoff, and then drop
into a slot on the sled is a lot easier and faster than having to move to a
place where there is metal, somhow get connectivity from that metal to the
electronics on the sled, and still face the problem of getting connectivity to
Thank you again Dlang. I am trying to figure things out ahead of time. I can be very forgetful at my age. I know you want metal that is not bent. I had not thought about bearings being a problem. You explained it well.