Bar since machine uses 4.5 inches of the router base and the fact that the Dewalt router hold down button to hold shaft stationary is within that space. I think it is time to zhow all kickstarters how to change router bits. The lower shaft does not have abt means to use a 2nd wrench.
Martha Montgomery
from the picture that he posted of the clamp for the router, there is a notch in
it to give you access to the shaft locking button.
Yup, it’s just like regular you can reach in and push the button then use the wrench like normal.
For ease of use I made a little thing that pops into the hole for the button to lock it in place so you don’t have to worry about holding the button and doing the wrench at the same time, but I’m still perfecting that. Mainly I want to add a place to attach one of those “remove before flight” lanyards to it because more than once I’ve tried to turn my router on while it was still locked. It hasn’t killed the router yet…but I imagine it’s pretty awful for it.
The one exception to it being super straight forward is if you want to do a tool change in the middle of a cut to a long router bit. To insert a router bit with a total length of say 3.5 inches the sled has to be able to lift up from the cutting surface which it can’t do while the belts are taught. We will probably add a “slack the belts” button to make that easier.
There are a lot of firmware tweaks that we still need to do to improve the user experience, and we will keep adding them well after we ship based on everyone’s feedback.
Bar,
I am not understanding. If base is covered with clamps, how do you reach up an depress the button. Looked close at picture an only see what looks like a nut ans the end of a bolt. But do not see a means to depress the shaft lock button. I just am not understanding. Maybe for me the kobalt router might be easier. But do not know if it has the torque of the Dewalt. No matter what speed my hands can hold it steady. While the Dewalt even at lowest speed will just my hands when it starts. I see router bits as something 2 or 3 different bits are used per project. So it is certainly something I need to understand
Martha Montgomery
Bar,
Yes one of your early updates stated that the loosening of the belts would not affect calibration. That it could resume where it left off. Is it a rod that extends from outside of lowet clamp to the push button?
There’s not really an angle from which you can see the router button in there, but it is accessible. I’ll share the little tool that I made to hold down the button. With that tool you can do the whole thing one handed pretty easily and it’s very straight forward.
I will try to make a video showing how it works soon. I think when you see it you will be surprised at how similar the process is to changing the router bit under any other circumstances.
Thank you. I do know and am able to change router bits. Just confused on how it gets done on maslow4. I did buy a kobalt router to see if compatable. I think it may. It would notvhave a problem. Shaft above chuck can use 12mm or 1/2" thin open end wrench to allow two wrench bit change. Also shaft lock k is below bottom of the base. Not sure if it has sufficient torque. Says 1 1/4 hp like the Dewalt. Greater Variation in speed control. 10k to 30k says it can do 35k. Soft start is amazing. Also it takes ER11 collets which is a big plus. But only available from Lowes.
Martha Montgomery
I just looked back at a previos video where you showed a lower frame in the video. I did see a section with a circle near the center cutout. I am ow guessing this is where the dewalt button needs to be located. But still will be interesting to see what you came up with. I guess it will not be long and you will need to consider putting together assembly instructiond. I am very pleased with locknut upgrade. Was thinking i would have to invest in locktite. May need my package sent after all. Changing mode of transportation to an e-trike.
Yup, you got it exactly 
Thank you Bar. Very informative. I learned much from this weeks video. In a few days i have some g code simulator software arriving. Also have downloaded Freecad and librecad software and am going to try learning. I realy enjoy your insruction videos.
Excellent! I am glad to hear it!
Thank you for the great recommendation of what you wanted to see. It’s easy for me to forget things that we haven’t shown since I see them every day. Showing you all what you want to see is the whole point of the weekly updates.
Bar
I just had another idea. Zip tie router lock device to end of router plug so the router has to be unplugged when changing bits. What do you think?
Martha Montgomery
That’s a very clever idea! I imagine for some setups it would be impractical, but it’s a form of passive lockout that encourages a safe practice.
Thank you. Also Bar likes listing projects for 3d printing. But i do not see why it can ot be wood. Do you think he should also come up with g code to be able to cut one out without 3d printer?
Martha Montgomery
I haven’t looked at his design, so I can only guess. Some pieces are a lot easier to print on a 3D printer, especially if the geometry is complex. But it’s a good question to ask. If the user can carve one out on their new Maslow, it could be a good project for them to get familiar with the Maslow operation. I’d also suggest that Bar might want to keep focused on getting the first batch out and let some clever user work on redesigning the lock device in wood.
Sounds like you are not a kickstarter on the maslow4. The oiece is not complex it is a plug to fill basically a hole. A hole created to allow access to dwp611 router moter lock button. Bar believes everyone owns a 3d printer so they have no difficulty making their own. I do not believe i am alone in not owning one.
Martha Montgomery
Attaching it to the power cord is a great way to make it impossible to turn the router on with that part in there. It could also be possible to carve from wood, but I am not 100% sure. The way it is designed now there are some small features that would likely break if made from wood, but they may not be necessary. I think @jwolter is right that I will focus on getting the kits out and probably someone else will beat me to making that improvement, but if someone else hasn’t already done it by the time I get to it I will take a look.
I promise that I’m not assuming that everyone has a 3D printer, any parts that we design which are 3D printed we will sell also like we said in the update. Having the free files for people to 3D print them at home is just a bonus option for people who do have a 3D printer. We will never release anything that needs to be 3D printed and not give you another way to get it.
Thank you Bar, that is reassuring. I keep trying to figure out different software to use free to get gcode. Just downloaded inkscape 1.3.1 and trying it out. One items I have not figured out. How do you set z axis height to top surface of project. In a 2hr class on pro grade machine. It was done using a sheet of paper under the bit till it was difficult to slide. Not sure how that works with maslow4. I am wondering how you do that. I can maybe see placing a small piece of material on bottom and coming down in z a,is till it begins to move. Is that it?
Martha Montgomery
You can do it in exactly the same way if you would like. The piece of paper approach will still work well.
I typically move the machine to a part of the wood that I am not using and lower the z-axis until I see it just barely make a mark and then back off by 0.1mm or so.
How you want to do it is more of a personal preference than a right or wrong approach. Generally speaking all the ways that work on other CNC machines will also work on Maslow