Wow so cool to see it come together so quickly! It looks awesome and I think you will have a very rigid frame.
I’d try and use the noise as an excuse for a plasma cutter, or better yet one of these
Yeah those are cool, albeit pricey. On the lower end, one could get one of these:
One hobby project at a time! That thing is awesome, though
Here is my Maslow that is essentially the same as what you drew. Frame is hinged to wall, and will have 2x4 legs that can drop down to allow frame to lay flat to wall when not in use. I intend to cut parts to fabricate a 12’ torsion box top bar that I will mount higher (current config matches stock Maslow specs).
Little more progress and almost ready to assemble the frame. Lots of work and learning some welding basics has been a blast. I didn’t end up adding the top angled supports in the center because the top structure was so rigid as-is. I still am adding the supports for the ends of the top bar but I just haven’t gotten to those yet since I need to flip the frame over so I’ll probably do it once the setup is on casters.
Looks good! I like the pocket hole idea for attaching the perimeter frame.
The pocket fasteners actually attach the backer plywood to the inside of the 2x4 frame, flush with the bottom of the plywood skirt. Skirt attaches to the top of the 2x4 frame with regular screws and wood glue. I took out as many screws as possible after the glue dried. I will try to take a detailed pic to illustrate later this morning.
It was a bit of a pain to build. The original intent was to construct it face down on the ground and put the pocket holes on the back of the plywood, but there wasn’t enough 2x4 for the screws to grab from that direction. So, I had to clamp and fuss and hold my mouth just right to get it to work. Ultimately, though, I like how it turned out.
I should have done a better job of documenting the build, but I figured if anyone likes my design, I can provide drawings, drawn in AutoCAD. Twelve foot top bar torsion box to mount at the top of frame will be one of my first projects, if I can ever get around to using my machine. The frame was built tall to accomodate a higher top bar.
What you did makes a lot of sense. That definitely helps the simplification of adding on the border but I can see how adding those pocket holes would be a pain!
Here is a detail photo of the corner. You can see a small portion of the 2x4 frame, pocket holes, and doubled up 1/2" ply. The skirt is installed about a half inch outside a sheet of plywood so I can get the sacrificial sheets and cut sheets out.
Yesterday I added the braces to set the frame at ~15° from the wall, I can fold the frame flush to the wall when not in use.
In retrospect, I probably should have mounted it a few inches higher off the ground so I could easily sweep when folded. Logic was to reduce how high I needed to lift stock. If I take it down for any reason, I will mount it higher next time. Bugs and sawdust will make quite a mess down there.
Total frame build materials:
6 - 2"x4"x8’
1 - 2"x4"x10’ (temp top bar)
2 - 4’x8’x1/2" ply (one for backer, one for skirt cut into 6" strips at orange big box hardware store)
1 ea 4’x8’ 1/2" and 1/4" ply sacrificial shim stock
Drywall screws, 1" and 3" (or so)
1/4" bolts nuts and washers for standoff legs
4 - gate hinges and lag screws to fit
Or the much cheaper 4x6. I have one, works great if you clean/flush/refill the gearbox (rep for send, but mine was clean) and buy a better blade
Good point. I was referring to the general machine concept, but most hobbyists don’t need a 7"x12".
Finished the welding and assembly today. Lots of work but overall it went smoother than expected. Hoping tomorrow to get the spoil board and perimeter attached and get to cutting
Wow, looks excellent. And I envy the clean and empty garage!
I’m sure that once I get going on some projects that will be very temporary!
Next phase complete getting the frame completely cleaned, primed and painted. It’ll live in the garage with fairly high humidity here in NC so hopefully this should keep the rust to a minimum.
What will the skirt material be? Definitely countersink any screws pretty deep just as a preventative measure against random wayward plunge cuts outside the normal cut zone. Granted, probably not ‘likely’, but definitely within the rhealm of possibility.
Very nice work, I like the rollers for portability.