My advice regarding cabinet construction is to take a close look at your nearest kitchen wall cabinet and analyze just what it takes to make that thing work. Although a seemingly simple project, there is a lot going on there, some of which is suited for the Maslow, some not. The sheet goods portion (walls, back, top & bottom) would seem to be best just cut with a table or panel saw, but observe how all of it is joined… most likely the edges have rabbets that make for stronger glued joints, and the top and bottom horizontal elements are slotted (dadoed) into the walls and back. Most custom cabinet makers do this joinery work with either a router or special blades on their table saw. If your kitchen cabinet was manufactured, I am pretty certain all those parts were cut on a CNC. Then there is the face frame, which finishes the cabinet front and creates the support for the doors. Those parts also use rabbets to mate to the above case. And then the doors, also a combination of panels and frames with their special joinery techniques. Yes, there are many ways to skin this cabinet cat, and corners can be cut. But there is a reason why they are built this way… 100’s of years of experience and use has shown this technique yields the strongest, most durable, least warped result.
My feeling is that the Maslow can be your friend when doing all the sheet components that need dados and rabbets, especially if you do not have a table saw. BUT, the machine must be well calibrated, and the z axis needs to work with reliability and precision. To me, speed is not an issue, as the Maslow lives in the same space as my other tools, so I can work on the framing and door components while the panels are being cut. I have had some success with a small cabinet
and a workbench
But my next task will be shop cabinets that will serve as a prototype for a kitchen project. Before starting this, a little more tuning is necessary to the machine. More to come on that front.
Best of luck and plenty of dust!