Adjusting Bed, Not Motors

Great feedback, I had not considered the center of gravity. As much as I want to build what I think is the perfect base I think I just need to get a basic set up and start using it. Waiting gives to much time to over think.

premature optimization is the root of all evil

:slight_smile:

guilty as charged :smiley:

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Waiting is not really in my nature so I have gone ahead and drawn out my concept . I am hoping that those of you with experience will be able to spot issues, flaws and offer suggestions.

This first drawing shows the frame structure.

The second drawing, frame with the bed in place with 3/4" peg holes at 4" centers.

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Third Drawing, Shows raised skirt in place (darker pegs for quick placement/registration). Bed is 1 1/2" above bed and has multiples sizes which allows one to reconfigure to accommodate various sized works.

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Fourth drawing, Shows lift pegs on bed. One can insert appropriate thicknesses of discs to bring work piece to shirts height.
e.g. 3/4" work pieces would require…
Lift Peg (which has 1/4" base) + 1/2" lift spacer

My last shows profiles of the Lift Pegs and a Skirt component. I envision some type of clamp incorporated into the skirt component in-order to secure the work piece. An alternative my be to simple screw the work piece down to the bed.

Let me know what you think. TIA

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FYI - the 80/60 is using this technique for adjustment - just lower range of 0 - 3/4 inch by using different size waste board.

Thank you

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I love the constant flow new inspiration in the community.
Thanks for sharing! A lot to think about and to copy :wink:
I can even see it as the new calibration method as a replacement for the table cloth or wall paper.

Bee, you are absolutely right, the 80/60 design is where my thought process started. I really wanted to be able to work stock dimensional lumber (1 1/2") and did want to have to always have a bunch of misc skirt and waste boards around. I may be over thinking this, we’ll see.

Gero, I am not sure I follow you on the calibration, I am not really up to speed in that area. I will have to do some reading.

I think @gero was referencing a calibration technique I’m working in that uses computer vision to detect postional error from a regularly spaced set of shapes on the backboard. We’ve been looking for something inexpensive (table cloth, shower curtain, etc) that is large and has the right shapes and spacing (like polka dots). I think he was suggesting you pegboard as an option. Unfortunately, the shapes can’t be round because we can’t guarantee the sled/camera won’t be rotated. Without adding something to measure angle off of plumb of the sled/camera, a circle won’t be able to give an error in the x and y directions… it will just give the distabce between the camera and the center of the circle. The angle is needed to calculate the x,y. If you use a square, you can find the x,y, on the basis that the sled/camera hasn’t rotated past a 45 degrees (which would be extreme and I believe unlikely)

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Sorry if I missed it but what are you using as your large peg board (spacing of holes)? How are you spacing the skirt peg holes so they are fairly accurate?

madgrizzle, I just read through the computer vision calibration thread, wow. A lot to take in there. I don’t know or understand enough yet to really say but I am wondering if it would be possible to have a few inserts that could be placed into strategic locations on the bed that have the necessary shapes/designs used by the camera. Of course this assumes that the grid work of peg holes would are accurately laid out. My original thought was that I could use the Maslow to cut the holes but that would require that it is itself accurately calibrated. The traditional wood worker in me revert back to doing it by hand with a gig.

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Jayster, I am thinking of using MDF for the bed and the holes would be 3/4" on 4" centers. As I mention above I considered using the Maslow itselfs to cut the holes but I am not experienced enough to know if this realistic. My second thought was to do in a traditional manner by make a gig.

@Kelvin

My first thought is you could cut 3/4 away from the 2 vertical 2 x 4’s in the 80/60 just in the 4 ft x 8ft area to gain the extra space to get the full 1.5 inch access. Again you would just need shims ( waist boards ) to stack into it for shallower work.

But run with it - this is why the 80/60 exist, to be changed and modified.

I’m testing motor mounts today - I believe I will end up with an adjustable top bar ( in and out) as well on the 80/60. Time will tell.

Thank you

I am very interested in what you come up for the adjustable motor mounts/top beam.

It is very simple - 4 330mm (13 inch) 7mm(1/2 inch) all thread “bolts” at even intervals, 2 center in a push pattern, 2 outer in a push, pull. This just refers to the way nuts and washers are applied. It will give adjustability. I only plan on needing to adjust the motors 1 time. I only plan to work on 3mm -20 mm ( 1/8 inch to 3/4 ) this may change if my ultralight calls for 1 inch but I doubt it.

Thank you

To all,
Second frame build is being designed mentally right now, I have the original Maslow from the Kickstarter campaign. Had built the default frame in my garage with a 10’ top beam for my first build, which was finally taken apart after motor gear failure and wife had enough of it sitting there in the garage for approx 1 year idle.
New frame needs to be wall mounted (small but long shed).
After many hours of cutting large projects 12’ top beam seems to be a must for lower/outer edge accuracy (or longer? love to get more feed back).
Also thinking to use unistrut or similar just for the top beam for rigidity.
Really need a skirt for full 8x4 projects.

Musings:
Why not keep the top beam fixed (motors and chain) and also the 8x4 skirt fixed and in level/aligned with each other.
Have a MDF bed with a foam waste-board adjustable from behind at four points using a screw system similar to the z axis/router depth or that of a C clamp system?
This would allow each screw to be adjusted to keep the work/cutting material level to the skirt which is fixed and aligned to the motors/chains.
If working on a smaller dimension project I would need to put filler pieces around it to make a skirt.

Just beginning to learn Fusion 360 so may take me a little while to post a mock-up of what I envision

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basic drawings mocked up one of the mechanism hope they make sense





angle close up

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