I found the lock washers and screws supposed to be used for it. They sure are tiny. Sorry for the trouble >< am I correct to assume that I’m supposed to put the wood screws in the bearings from bag 2 for attaching in the middle of the top beam? The provided screws are too large to fit inside these bearings.
IIRC, the bearings are mounted on S-hooks. The other end of the S-hooks go thru the last link in your chain. The bungee or cord loops around the bearing and then is arranged to provide tension by way of the elasticity of the bungee or using weights.
Someone correct me if I got this wrong; it’s been a while since my build.
stock, one end of the s-hook goes to the elastic, the other side goes through
the center of the small sprockets that don’t have a hub.
if you look at the post I made about one way to do weights, you will see the
clothsline pulley’s I picked up at home depot to use instead.
they have the advantage that they don’t fall off if there is too much slack 
David Lang
Hi,
first post, please be gentle
I have put together the bolt together frame and installed the MakerMade kit. However, before starting to fire up the motors, I want to make sure that everything looks roughly correct.
Especially the slack in the bungy cord is something that I am not sure if it is correct. I already wrapped it around the side posts once to tighten it a bit.
I would appreciate if someone in the know confirms that everything looks at least half decent.
Thank you very much.
Marie.O
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Welcome to the Forum @marie.o!
is something that concerns me a bit. If the sled would move to the upper left corner i could imagine the slack chain getting the the work area. Bungees and springs are obsolete for the Maslow in my opinion.
Use the search and find many examples of weight tensioning. The advantage is that there is a constant force on the slack chain.
Kind regards, Gero
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While I agree that the weights is a good idea, for testing and just to get started, shorten or knot the bungee so it is barely tight when the sled is close to the motor on each side and that should get you going. You are more likely to jump a tooth when the sled is up in one of those corners when it is drooping like that.
Thank you both.
@Orob: I will go ahead and tighten the cords a bit more.
@Gero: Thank you for the hint regarding issues I might come along with the bungies. Using “weight tension” was helpful as a search word in the forum and let to very useful information for the optimization.
I shall report back
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Thanks to your help, I was able to complete the calibration procedure. I needed to tighten the rope quite a bit, but it looks okay for now.
Now I wonder if, after changing for example the router, it is enough to skip over the existing data for chain length and all, and do the final calibration with cuts only?
Thanks again.
marie.o
If i understand your question, once you have set chain length and measured and everything is in there can you just restart calibration by doing the cuts: short answer - yes. Long answer. Maybe verify the chain orientation (under vs over), ring setting and all that still looks right and proceed.
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Let me rephrase: The calibration procedure in GroundControls is a multi-step process. Can I skip steps, that I have taken in the past, and only execute the steps that I think are needed this time? For example: The chain length, position of motors etc won’t change when I change the router.
Yes, in general you can but you may have mixed results if you skip a step which is actually needed 
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As soon as I get my router going successfully, I shall report back.
Thank you all, and special thanks for creating Maslow CNC in the first place.
marie.o
It looks like the finished height of this frame is around 6.5’ tall, I have an HVAC duct at about 6’3" right above where this machine will go, will building the frame and then shortening the legs by a few inches cause any issues? I see Leg Part C connects at 13.5" up Leg Part A, and 8.53" up Leg Part B, but are those dimensions critical so long as they’re kept relative to eachother? For instance, could that 13.5" instead be say, 6" and the 8.53" be 1.03"? Or alternatively, are there any other parts that could be shortened to get the height I need?
Hope I’m posting this as a new question, sorry I’m new to this forum type and am not sure what I’m doing! If this sort of question has already been addressed somewhere, I’d certainly appreciate a link, I wasn’t able to find anything about it. Thanks!
The thing to keep in mind is the sled radius. If you are using a makermade sled, the diameter is 18", so your sled radius of 9" will hang over the edge of the cut space when it cuts along the bottom of the work piece. Don’t hit the floor. You can make the sled a little smaller if you don’t have the space, but at some point it will get tippy. The Metal Maslow sleds are more like 14.5" but square, so if they are twisted as they move (the ring allows them to twist as they slide - not to be confused with tilting which is never ok), they might drag. The critical dimension on the bottom is your sled clearance from the cutting sheet edge to the floor. Hope that helps or maybe provides some perspective for the next round of considerations.
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