Cheap fixes for z-axis slop on the Ridgid R22002

[geeklimit]

The Problem

These are not precision-machined parts, and either the cutout in the motor body is too big, the tab on the clip is too small, the hole in the clip has problems, the worm can slide up and down parallel to the router body - or a combination of all four.

Testing

With my Ridgid R22002, the problem was the hole in the clip used by the worm. In testing, here’s what happens when we zero the bit and drill two 10mm holes: (numbers rounded for illustration)

Zeroing error

1. The bit is 10mm above the surface, The clip is perfectly perpendicular to the router body (level).
2. The z-axis is told to move 5mm down. The worm side of the clip moves 5mm down while the router body doesn’t move.
3. The clip is now tilted “down”, with the worm side 5mm lower than the router side.
4. The z-axis is told to move 10mm down. The bit is now zeroed, just grazing the surface. The clip is still angled 5mm down, lower on the worm side.
5. The z-axis is told to rise to its traverse height of 5mm. The worm side of the clip is raised 5mm, and the clip is now level. The bit is still zeroed on the surface of the wood.

Routing errors

1. The z-axis is now told to drill a 10mm hole. The worm drive turns enough to move the worm side of the clip down 10mm.
2. The first 5mm of downward travel is used to angle the clip down on the worm side, with no change in the depth of the bit. The remaining 5mm push the bit 5mm below the surface.
3. The worm now retracts 15mm, 10mm to clear the surface and 5mm to get to the safe traverse height.
4. The first 5mm is used to make the clip level, perpendicular to the router body. The bit depth has not changed and is still 5mm below the surface.
5. The next 5mm is used to angle the clip up, now with the worm side 5mm higher than the router side. The bit depth has not changed and is still 5mm below the surface.
6. The final 5mm pulls the bit up 5mm. The bit should be 5mm above the surface but is zeroed on the surface.
7. This process will repeat in the second hole.

This is the best-case scenario. Here’s where it gets worse:

Shortly afterward, you’ll notice the holes are 5mm too shallow. Adjusting the zero point 5mm down will be a mistake - the bit will drill 10mm-deep holes, but carve a 5mm deep path through the material in-between holes when it should be 5mm above the surface.

Moving the bit up until the bit is flush with the surface will leave the worm-side of the clip 5mm higher than the router side. Zeroing here will mean a 10mm travel of the worm before the bit moves. Going from a 5mm traverse height to create a 10mm hole will then be 15mm of worm travel:

1. The first 10mm will move the worm-side of the clip from “up” to “down”, with the bit still 5mm above the surface.
2. The final 5mm of worm travel will zero the bit on the surface, when it should be 10mm below it.
3. Telling the z-axis to rise to traverse height will then put the bit perfectly 5mm above the surface and leave no hole at all.

This is the part where you start going crazy.

Both of these pictures are with the clip in the same place, and with finger pressure on the router tab either way.