Inexpensive add-ons for z-axis slack imprecision

This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at

Initial post to forums has been migrated to github / community garden.

Text is too long for a forum post, linking github:


added text and picture for using a bolt & nut to hold parts in place while bushing glue dries, thanks @ChuckC!


Be warned that you need to use a strong adhesive to connect the bushing or it will fail. I used 2P-10 (a type of wood super glue) and it failed after about a week). I had to break it down and redo it. The second time I used a $2 two part epoxy from Harbor Freight. This seems to be holding well.

Note: 2P-10 is amazing for holding wood parts together when assembling. It is not cheap, but holds wood great and sets in seconds.

9/18/18 Update:

My “Z” axis came apart. I have re-done it again. If it comes apart again, I am going to make new one piece one design replacement (stainless steel).

I recommend that everyone perform a pre-flight safety check of their Maslow before EVERY use. Here is what I try to do every time:

  1. Check to ensure cables are securely connected and the power cord is not wrapped around the “Z” axis cabling.
  2. Check the bottom of the sled to make certain it is smooth and has no obstructions.
  3. Verify software updates have been performed.
  4. Verify motors are working and verify “Z” is correct.
  5. Exercise the system by moving sled to be certain all is OK.
  6. Inspect your tool bit for wear and/or damage and confirm it is tightened properly into the collet .
  7. Verify your vacuum system is cleaned out and ready for use.
  8. Check that the “Z” axis upgrade is still firmly attached.
  9. Put on hearing protection (recommended)
  10. Confirm “Home” position and the “zero” height position of the Z axis.

Please feel free to add your own checklist items and possible add to the index for the Maslow. I am sure that there are a number of good practices and safety related things that we can address with this.

Yeah I had the clear super glue from gorilla fail quickly. Ended up using jbweld a few weeks ago and so far so good.

I am waiting on one of these to help solve my slop problem. I will remove the orange pin, glue and put one anchor screw through the existing piece.

Anybody else tried this?

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Looks like a good tool, be aware it will severly impact your range of motion. Watch out for the safety height in your gcode after you install it or it may run your shiny new nut into the top of the screw support.

Do you think it’d make sense to 3d print parts for any of these fixes?

I bet using a strong-ish material like PETG could be used for the washer at least. Potentially saves a trip to the store.

Maybe it could also work to make a piece that wraps around the clip and allows some straightening from both sides of the clip (with a look that looks more like @arnoldcp’s version in his post Z axis only moving the router some of the time)

Just wanted to put that out there in case anyone has thought about it

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I think a 3D printer part could absolutely be useful here. You could print a “stubby” anti-backlash nut with guide tubes extending upward and downward for support that fits in the lock tab exactly.

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I took that dang clip and bent it into a more conical shape. That did the trick. I’m trying it without the metal sleeve modification, will see how it goes.

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It worked! I might still go back and add the collar mod, but this is good enough for now.

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For completeness: In the long run, this did not work, and the clip flattened itself out. I went and got a washer of the right thickness, and a collar as recommended.

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For clarification, is the washer you use 5/16" ID or 3/4"ID? The Lowes item # 58125 is described as “Hillman 12 Count x 3/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Flat Washer”. The instructions say to use a 5/16" ID washer. Lowes Item #41574 is described as “Hillman 25-Count 5/16-in Galvanized/Uncoated Standard (SAE) Flat Washer”.

Just wanted to put my 2 cents in. Rather than using glue or epoxy, I tapped the mechanical fuse and bolted the bushing on. It was really easy. I used a half inch dowel to keep everything aligned while drilling the holes. You can see the spacing washer below too.

Another thing, sprayed all the parts, and the inside of the router base with dry-moly.