If you back up one link on the sled couldn’t you simply skip the chain ahead one link on each sprocket to compensate?
Yes you can.
Not wanting to redo my chain positioning at the moment, I found an M2x8mm bolt and nut fit perfectly in the hole at the end of the chain. Better safe than injured!
For the record, the wood triangulation kit does NOT have this problem (and never has).
These are images from the assembly instructions:
That’s about as clear as I could get with how to insert the cotter pin…
The cotter pin that comes with the kits is much longer than this and is easily inserted/removed through the two arched holes for easy chain detachment.
While I was testing linkage strength my chains easily took well over 95 pounds each (and I was never able to break a linkage either )
Ok, I thought the pin was being inserted the other way (and I’ll bet that a
bunch of people are using the original pins going the other way, there hasn’t
been anything before now to say that they shouldn’t, and it’s easier to do)
I totally agree! I never thought of it as a problem until now either. But it makes total sense.
Has this still been working well for you? Can you provide a picture? Does it interfere with the cotter pin? I am guessing that you have one of the ring kits, but perhaps I am wrong on that. I suppose your fix would work for any connection method, though, no?
I haven’t had a chain fail, but I’d rather avoid the issue than learn from it first hand
The pins are just over 2mm, so a M2 bolt will work well, if you get one just the
right length (or cut it down) it should not interfere with anything.
But just moving everything one link works as well.
+1 to what @dlang said. Moving everything 1 link works fine (feed the second link over the vertical sprocket when feeding chains and then put the Cotter pin through the second link). I used the M2 bolt until the next time I reset chain lengths, then I moved to using the second link. Using the 2nd link is a simpler solution and doesn’t require extra parts
Out of curiosity, does anyone if this something that has been added to the calibration procedure? It seems like a good practice for everyone considering the potential for damage and injury in the case of the hollow link snapping during a cut, as well as the ease of adding it as a step in the initial calibration.
The calibration procedure in GroundControl? I don’t think so but I haven’t opened GroundControl in months because of WebControl. It would be great to update instructions about this
I agree, magnetic switches are key for things like saws and routers that will come back on when plugged in or otherwise energized. I bought one for my planned router/saw E-stop. Especially since I will be setting up auto spindle control.