Has anyone tried cutting the recycled plastic sheets with a Maslow?
Variously known as Ecosheet/ Ekoply / Ecoboard
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No, never. I’m not entirely sure it’s available in the States, at least under that particular name. I’m imagining it’s something similar in density to Trex or other composite wood/plastics which could be interesting to cut.
As an aside, the description on their site states:
EKOply gives you the option of entering into an image conscious man for whom forest degradation is a significant factor in the destruction of the environment in which you live.
I mean, it’s good to have options, right?
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without having worked with a material like this in a maslow, but understanding the physics of plastic cutting and power tools my observation:
Friction = heat = burning plastic.
http://www.dotmar.com.au/machiningguide.php
the RPMs listed above are from 100-500rpm with a single flute cutter, albeit at metal machining X/Y speeds (very low compared to maslow).
Its most likely that the default router minimum RPM speed (10k) is a few orders of magnitude too fast for any bit. (a single flute would be the only reasonable option below multiple meters/second X-Y speeds, which are well beyond current Maslow X-Y speeds)
It will likely generate too much friction and heat at any depth of cut.
Furthermore: “Ensure that only the cutting edge contacts the material”
this is unlikely given MaslowCNC’s current tolerances ( > +/-1mm) and will increase friction on the bit and material.
I would be very cautious cutting this material in a Standard Maslow.
If you do try, please report any results to the Wiki’s Tested Stock Materials page.
This is a good place to remind any reader to review the MaslowCNC Safety Page and ALWAYS have a Fire Extinguisher (or 2!) in your workshop.
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Yes it could get a bit flamey
The spec sheet does suggest it’s possible.
“Ecosheet can be CNC routed, using a tungsten carbide head.”
http://www.ecosheet.com/files/8513/6681/5676/Ecosheet_Specification_Sheet_v5.pdf
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I have no doubt that it can be worked with an appropriate mill, just that the default MaslowCNC machine isn’t the appropriate mill. Search the forums and you’ll find people (mostly speculating at this point) attempting to use different spindles.
A more detailed search of the web should give you some starting points for various feeds and speeds as I had found and linked. I’m sure there are better sources for milling plastic information, but the data was clear: slower speeds at the router bit, high tolerances to minimize friction, coolants were mentioned as a method of reducing heat…
It might be quite possible, but almost certainly not with a default machine.
In general, there aren’t a large number of completed default MaslowCNCs and probably only @Bar’s is ‘battle tested’ at this point, and other than a few projects in sheet aluminum, not much other than various types of plywood has been attempted yet.
good luck!
PS: as I’ve said in other threads: Do your homework, think it through, come up with some strategies and experiment!
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Everyone needs to remember that if you can cut it with normal woodworking tools, the woodworking router that the maslow moves around can cut it as well.
I see no reason why you couldn’t do this, but you would need to experiment with bits and feed/speed settings.
look at the manufacturers pages for documentation about using handheld routers and other woodworking tools rather than CNC machines. Any CNC they talk about will be many times faster than the maslow.
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i have used a 1/4" single flue upcut bit to cut ldpe, hdpe, abs and polycarbonate with a standard wood router on tnhe highest speed, cuts fine.
the only plastic that seems to give me grief is acrylic. it melts and stinks a lot. I’m sure it can be done, just my perxonal experience.
LDPE and HDPE can be bought for about 50% chjeaper from China, but you are talking about a minimum order of 20 sheets. For outdoor usage, it lasts pretty much forever, much more durable than plywood and super easy to cut/machine.
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Acrylic is always problematic on a cnc without a spindle; at least for me. And even with one it was definitely prone to issues.
I worked in architectural signage for about 10 years, and even with some solid CNC machines around we mostly just cut a template and hand-routed when we could. That may be the way to go in most cases.
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