I did order 1/8" and 4mm bits. Also just ordered Dewalt 3/32" collet to use 4mm bits. The 4mm are v bits. 1/8" and 1/4" are mill bits with a couple of 1/4" bits being v bits as well. Just different angles. Understanding you may offer compression bits. I do not have any of those yet. If there is any way belts could be mounted directly to sled and just the Dewalt router moning inside. I think that would be preferable and it would also release strain on z axis.
A 1.5 inch hose might be slightly better for maneuverability, but I’d wait to see if its a problem before buying one.
You could do that, but it actually puts more stress on the z-axis. By having the belts anchor directly to the router the force passes directly from the anchor point to the router that is doing the cutting which is the most direct path. If the belts were attached to the sled the force would have to pass through the sled, through the z-axis, and then to the router which adds more parts which need to be rigid
I think I understand. Belts responsible for moving router. Z axis only strain is keeping sled under the router. Still I wish there were more bracing. I can see sled cracking even with light use. Not counting speeds of 2k mm/minute. Saw video of brute bit being pushed 1" deep cut in single pass at 1k mm/min. Do not expect this device to duplicate that. You stated bracing of slide rails could be added. I am wondering about v shaped bracing to strengthen more than just one angle. For vacuum pickup starting to wonder if pvc or abs pipe along with heat gun might work similarly. Wondering cost of vacuum pickup
For basic bits, I’ve found that bits with a single cutting edge work best, assuming that you have difficulty slowing your router down. So for me that’s 4mm bits (on a 1/4" shaft). With one cutting edge there’s a better chance of getting chips instead of dust.
An old suggestion for bit maintenance, is to use engine degreaser on them. It will help remove resins and glues. I have found that it significantly prolongs the lifespan of the bits.
you may be surprised. Bar is VERY conservative with his cutting depth, but I ran
the original maslow with 1/2" and 3/4" bits doing full depth cuts through 3/4"
hardwood plywood.
David Lang
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the belts don’t move up and down a lot.
my question for bar is what’s the height of each stack? are you using 6mm belt,
10mm belt, other??
David Lang
looking at the pictures, I would guess around 25-30mm per layer (at or just over an inch) plus probably ~2 inches between the bottom belt and the workpiece
@Martha based on work that we did with the prior maslow when looking at supports for the linkage arms, circles of plywood glued together with a bolt up through the middle works very well.
but based on the spacing I’m seeing (up to ~6" of misalignment for the top belt), I think things will work much better with the belts at the proper heights to match the spools, but a shift of ± an inch or so as the Z axis plunges is not going to be too significant
I agree that Maslow isn’t really designed to do that, but if you did do that the force on the sled would be identical to engraving with a tiny bit. None of the cutting force passes through the sled at all, it is all transferred directly from the anchor to the belts and from the belts to the router. The only force acting on the sled is the force of sliding along the wood.
They are 6mm thick belts and the full arm assembly ends up being 21.5mm thick.
Thank you for your help. So about an inch between belt layer’s. So if bit is lowered to wood surface top and belt center is lowered so belt is level then lowered again half the depth of the board if cutting through the board. Then tightening belt at that height will result in minimum stretch if belt. So if height is being adjusted is on angle aluminum using two slots. One for belt to pass through and one for 8mm bolt. Will do this- actually just found something else. I have lots of steel meant for holding electronic equipment. A little over an inch wide with 2 bends on each side. Has slots about every inch 1/4" in width. May work well for belt attachment. Was at one time going to use for rails with v bearings for wheels. Looking at router. The four belt assemblies will come down to just above button to lock shaft to change bits. About 2" above collet. Bit needs to extend enough to be able to extend through board it is routing. So that lowest belt I am guessing about 3" with almost a inch rise for each other belt. Which would need about 6" for highest belt.
I was gearing up to ask that very question. Mounting the belt mechanisms felt like the simpler solution, but as I expected, you did the engineering and found that it was not.
There is more forces in play on the z axis. Every time the router start and stops there are twisting forces that over time can cause cracks. Especially if not reinforced. Now is the time to consider reinforcing before cracks have a chance to start.