My name is Patrick and I am in need of some calibration help…… Here’s a little rundown of what has been done so far. I ordered the M2 a few months ago, right before the newer model came out. I had setup the original to almost completion when i realized there was already a newer model and MAKER MADE really stepped up and sent me th e updated parts, Thank you again.
I cut a few small signs and designs with my initial setup and stock frame., and after calibrating a few times i came in at around 1.8mm accuracy based on the calibration results. At that point I knew that I wanted to go to a 12ft top beam / all unistrut setup. About $600 later I had my new frame complete. Ive been on this site for a few months just researching everyone’s setups and ideas. Thank you to all that take the time to put into this community, Ive never been apart of something like this and its been quite the adventure so far. I have recordered the whole build and plan on making some nice you tube videos as well as a in-depth write up on here.
Here’s where the issue lies,
The newer kit came with a blue brain box, i call it that because it’s what my first “new” one said. (BRAINS)
When I attempt calibration i get to the Z axis part and set it to move 5mm for example up. The whole sled takes off to the top for the board and if I didn’t get to the power cords it would have ripped itself apart, motors, sprockets, chains, who knows.
I checked all wire connections multiple times, all is tight. Could this be an issue with the new Due board? The computer does not know that i have changed the frame or anything else yet, so i feel like I can eliminates that right off the bat. Any help will be greatly appreciated, i was hoping to have this bad boy cutting about 2 weeks ago at the latest.
Thank you in advance,
Patrick
My cell is 864-314-0646 if anyone cares to reach out directly!!
I’ve read about this issue multiple times. if i remember correctly it’s a software issue if home is not set? I do know it’s been mentioned several times so a search on here or facebook might help.
Thank you for the tip. I felt silly later that day after asking that question. Ive been so deep into the frame setup, counterweights, etc trying to make this the BEST machine possible, and one that would last long term. I swapped boxes. From the NEW NEW “Blue” brain bow from maker made. To my other brand new yet white brain box. The Z axis moves as it should, GREAT, yet the x & y are now inverted. I always delve into forums and do tons of research, guess i jumped the gun a little. Now the X & Y axis are moving opposite. After doing some further reading in found a code course and it looks like chasing to $3=7 should fix this issue. I will keep this updated and then start my build log once “fully, in the correct direction” up and running.
Yes sir! Every time i started the calibration with the new blue brain box it would. I do believe as metal Maslow mentioned below, it was doing this because i had not set a home location with the new Brain? does this sound possible? I do not remember having this step in my first setup, the “by the book” frame and setup. Yet once i swapped the brain box’s the z axis worked and no running off in x & y land. Then realized that x & y were moving opposite of the intended direction.
I believe I’ve found the fix. Going to test it right now. I have so much time and love / blood / sweat & maybe a few tears lol. I’m ready to get this thing cranked up. The article I read sited that Note: Yama had a, this program is setup for Under Sprocket, not ON TOP for the chain setup. Keeping triangular calculations simple and easy.
Thank Bar! Ive been a fan of your posts on here since I started!
I was able to fix the x & y axis issue. It appears that the maker made software is precalibrated for UNDER SPROCKET. That would be the reason that with my new setup being ON TOP of sprocket with the counter weights that the x & y axis were moving the wrong direction. Well, wrong as in what direction I wanted them to go. The software was doing as it should, just needed to be adjusted. Latest question, i have calibrated and recalibrated multiple times. My z axis is plunging way to deep. Using a 1/4 inch bit, I had cut depth per pass set at .125
Let’s just say that Dewalt and maker made 1/4” bits sets are STRONG!!! Ive always been a Dewalt guy myself. When it came time to plung it went all the way through my 3/4 birch and almost all the way into the 3/4 meg as my waste board in 2 passes!! The z axis moves correctly when i calibrate it. But when actually cutting it goes haywire. After yet another recalibration it lowers towards the board, yet does not touch and continues to run the program moving up and down but the bit is not touching my workpiece. The Z AXIS inverted part may be the issue. What do you guys think?
