Personally I’m learning to break the work up into separate tool paths and run them from the same starting point. There are many advantages to this workflow, including the ability to say I will take a break and come back to it.
Fww
Thank you
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@Jayster I use a1/4 to 1/8 bit adapter now with the same design and have no vibration what so ever. As i started above, it’s worth a try. @Bee I do the same thing, but setting bit depth is still an issue either way. And i have more error running that way. I just shut down vac and router and closer laptop without shutting down gc and when i come back i open lap top and resume. I have nothing running
on laptop what so ever. I’ve shut down everything that runs in background because a notification and an update ruined a project. I’ve had no issues since. Cutting very clean now.
@bar I change USB cable to a short one and plugged router and vac system into different outlets on a separate breaker than the laptop and maslow and also have the line pre-reader thing on, (can’t think of what it’s called at the moment) and shut down everything running on laptop like notifications and updates and sign came out clean with no issues. 34000 lines of clean gcode run! 
big smile on my face! Lol
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Before changing out USB cable and running on separate outlets and stuff running in background. And the jittering. You can clearly see the difference! 
Uploading…
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Do you have the log.txt from that cut? With that and the .nc file to compare, we might be able to see something…
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I should have. I just closed laptop and walked away. It should still be on it i think, right?
Yes, it will be there. You’ll need to zip it - it will be pretty big.
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I’ll do it when i get off work today.
Thanks for your help
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If it resumed without you doing anything that is a MAJOR safety problem, we need
to know more.
you are going to need to zero the bit each time, trying to make all bits stick
out the same amount just doesn’t work in practice.
you can try putting a coller on each bit and set them that way, but in practice
there will always be a little variation depending on how hard you press the bit
in before and as you tighten the collet.
the auto-Z detection is the best way, but even that will vary a smidge as your
sensor plate gets dinged up.
David Lang
as soon as you take them off, you loose the repeatability that they are there
for.
David Lang
Are you referring to 1 .nc file with tool changes?
I am referring to the idea of trying to switch bits and have the new ones stick
out the same amount as the old ones so that Z doesn’t change.
you may be able to get away with it if you have carefully pre-positioned
locking rings on every bit, but you will find that once you get beyond a fairly
narrow range of sizes, that you just cannot make this work (the big bits can’t
go in far enough to have the small bits go in far enough to be held)
‘professional’ CNC systems have special mounts that give each bit a known
position, and then you enter the tool length into the CAM software, and it
adjusts where the Z is.
On the Maslow, since we are referencing the bottom of the sled, the auto-z
positioning is FAR simpler and more reliable.
Seriously, get a plate you can slid behind the sled and just touch off on it
each time.
many people are able to go through the bracket/router/bearings/bit and don’t
need to attach a clip to the bit to get things working.
David Lang
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agree with that. A fair amount of same length with different diameters is possible from what I’ve seen from china suppliers. Too thin diameters can not be long.
Good point.
I don’t see an auto Z detection! 
see this:
thank you
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Thanks for the link, but I don’t understand any of it. 
a bunch of chatting is all I’m getting out of it. Doesn’t explain anything that I understand I guess.
The discussion in that thread is how to make a tool to detect automatic Z height as pointed out by @dlang
Thank you
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But how do you use the automatic z height? I’ve looked for any info on it with no luck. I’m learning more about how to use features as i go, but not seen anything about automatic z adjust. I seem to ask a question and it rarely gets answered on here or it’s in a form i don’t understand. Lol But i do appreciate any help or ease of use i can get.
Connect 2 extra wires to your motor shield, there is a 3x4 grid of holes, you’ll need to solder them in the aux4 row (not sure which and i’m not near my maslow right now so i can’t check it)
Then attach one wire to a clamp, and the other one to a plate. Attatch the clamp to the router and put the plate under your sled.
Then you need a macro that you’ll surely find in the other tread, run that and it will lower your bit to the plate. When it senses a current it will stop and know that point is the z-zero.
Once you have it installed you won’t know how you ever did without it.
We should make a category with manuals, i think i typed this text like 10 times around the forums because the original information is spread around 20 posts in an old topic that probably went way off topic by the end 
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