Did a schematic come with the relay board? A manual? If you unplug just the signal wire from the relay board and leave the 5V and GND connected, does the relay pick up, the router get power? I hope not, but we’re trying to wring out the signal logic that the boatd needs.
Ok, I found the schematic here. Unfortunately, the relay board is designed to use ‘negative logic’, that is asserting 0V on an input causes the relay to pick up (change from its unpowered state).
I don’t think there is a safe way to use that relay board to control the router. If the router is connected to the relay N.O. pins, it will start if the Arduino resets. If the router is connected to the N.C. pins, it will start if the Arduino loses power or is not connected.
sorry for the bad news
That is a bummer. For the time being, you can continue to use it until you get a replacement (as long as it is supervised, obviously). Sparkfun is where I got my relays, but those require some soldering knowledge. The ones on Amazon do not clearly state the logic used, which is unfortunate. You might be able to get your money back because of that, and perhaps get the relay board you need. Were you planning to use the other three channels? If not, a single relay board is pretty inexpensive.
Also, if anyone really likes coding, perhaps there could be a choice for Active Low or Active High relays under the Spindle Automation option.
Here is a well-designed power-control strip which uses positive logic. It has four outlets, 1 always on + 1 normally on + 2 normally off, surge supression and a 12A thermal safety circuit breaker. More money to be sure, but well engineered and tested. It won’t be the thing that started the fire in the woodshop.
Be a little careful with it. I think there might still be some concerns about what happens if the board looses power and what happens to that pin when the board is booting up. Def always use the power switch on the router when changing bits!
FWW - I have everything on a power strip. I have a hanging spot for the sled on the frame. And a preflight check list. I run and extension cord to the power strip. On shut down I plug the plug of the power strip into it’s self. This ensures I can not leave the system powered.
I plan to use this for spindle control -
Looks like you already have suggested it once. Note to get MAX Amps you need to solder to the board directly.
Yes I do! But that is a sore subject
Mp mini delta, had about 6 great prints and of course modifying became my priority
E3d v6 hot end upgrade and this
Got it from Mark (designer and awesome dude). Put it on and didnt realize I had tightent the top mount too tight and actually split it. Hot end is jammed up w abs because again I had to test the limits (had enclosed but the bed could barely reach 80C) So my one and only 3d printer is out of commission at the time until I can figure out the best coarse of action.
That Creality or Prusa(if I really want to splurge) is looking better and better.
By the way I can guess why you were asking if I had a 3d printer… need to cover that pcb n duino and the mount I have is cracked told ya I have a tendency to over tighten. Knew you would like the 3dp talk leading up to the enclosure
I would print some brackets to hold the IOT Switch - on a hotday the glue could give way. Sounds like you might ned to wait on it. If you need input one of the guys I brought into 3D printing is working at Monoprice on the mini deltas this week.