The Default Frame


This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at http://maslowcommunitygarden.org/The-Default-Frame.html

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What space is needed for this? HxWxL

About 3x2 meters

Donā€™t forget room to maneuver sheet materials to and from the machine, as determined by the machine location and space access points.

How precise do the cuts have to be for the frame? I am assuming the primary ones that matter the most is the kicker and front leg

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Welcome to the Forum!
They donā€™t have to be that precise, but it doesnā€™t harm :grin:. The main thing for mounting is that the motors are level, as well as the support for the sheet.

Welcome! Ditto Geroā€™s comments. Also important is that the frame provides a mounting surface for the motors that is perpendicular to the plane of the working surface. Otherwise your chains may have a tendency to jump off your sprockets. There are guards to fix this problem, but if you can avoid it altogether, all the better.

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The lengths could be off by an inch or more and not matter much, as long as both
sides are very close (if the sides differ, the result will be twisted)

David Lang

My Metal Maslow should be shipping soonā€¦ so I want to get started on the frame now. But I want the cut/support area to be closer to 5x10. With obviously, most of the cutting in the center of a 4x8.

What are the critical dimensions that I need to heed? Iā€™m going with a 12ā€™ wide steel beam across the top. (unless you think I need to be wider) How far away does that rail need to be away from the ā€œedgeā€ of the table/board? Also, what angle should I be tilted at? Iā€™m making it a mobile materials cart on the back side. So I need to know about how wide I need to make the base. I donā€™t want it too wide where the friction and weight of the sled are a hinderance.

play with the numbers on the spreadsheet and make you min force higher than
stock and your max force lower than stock.

David Lang

EcoMouse, any advice for building my frame? I just unboxed my kit and was going to start buying materials. The metal maslow site says to use the default frame and bolt a 12ā€™ 2x4 on the short edge to the 10ā€™ top bar using 8"carriage bolts. Is that what you did?

If you plan on building out of wood, I cannot help you. (I mean, I canā€¦ itā€™s just I went a different direction with mine)
Iā€™m welding mine out of steel, so I can get a good rigid top beam of 14ā€™ long, effectively giving me the largest, most accurate cutting envelope. Plus, Iā€™m incorporating a vacuum table. I can post a preliminary drawing of what Iā€™ve scribbled up so far. If thatā€™s something you might be interested in doing for yourself?

Oh man youā€™re going all the way! I am doing mine out of wood but I ordered the 12ā€™ top bar from metalmaslow that ships later this month. Have you started a project page for your build? I think it deserves it with the vacuum table!

Hereā€™s some rough calculations I came up with so knew what and how much steel to buy. This is actual size, should you need actual dimensions called out, I could do so. As this isnā€™t exactly clear what size the actual pieces are. For instance, the 40" height, isnā€™t the actual piece in ā€œdark greenā€ itā€™s actually 40" away from where I suppose the top edge of the 4x8 sheet would sit. Thus, giving the actual piece of tube I need to cut is actually 36".
I went with this approach, because I wanted to see exactly how tall each option was going to be from the wheels to the top. The 12ā€™ version comes in just about 93" tall. Give or take depending on what wheels I end up getting. The 14ā€™ version is 102" tall. Should I be pressed to actually make legit plans for this, Iā€™d make it so the top beam can bolt the to top of the frame, instead of welding solid. As most peopleā€™s garage doors donā€™t actually clear 93", but could easily have that height or more once inside. Iā€™m also trying to keep the frame depth no wider than 35" should it be needed to be pushed out a standard wide man door.
Lots to consider with this frame set-up. While I personally donā€™t have any size restrictions, in my commercial space, with 23ā€™ high ceilingsā€¦ that might not always be the case moving forward, or should I want to sell it, if I can afford to upgrade to a real router table some day.

Hey out there!
I just finished the default design to start directly when my parts are here :slight_smile:
First I have to say that I am super excited for this to happen and that I am amazed of this machine!

I do have some questions regarding the default frame.

  1. Should I install a sheet of wood (behind the wood I am working on)? Otherwise the drill is slightly cutting into the frame part right?

  2. I wanna also add a 2x4 in the front to add smaller plywoods of wood which is not possible with the standard frame Design.
    Or how do you manage to use smaller parts?

Hope to get some feedback!
Best regards
-Chris

Hi !
Where do I found a list of where to use the numbered bags that came with my kit?
Iā€™m a begginer so thatā€™s all new for meā€¦ in the Frame instructions I saw close-ups pictures but there is not a general picture with the frame mounted to help

Thanks

Who did you get your kit from? They will have instructions for you.

Iā€™m curious about the two sheets of plywood. Step 11 talks about using ā€˜theā€™ sheet of plywood, and I donā€™t see any other steps mentioning it. Does it only need one sheet? Am I supposed to use the two of them together?

You use a tiny section of the second one to cut the sled later on. Most of it will be left over for future projects. :grinning: