Musings on frame design

Absolutely! One of the posts about the Fusion 360 scripts led me to fusion 360 and I just saw it’s free for the first year. So i’m downloading and installing now. With the scripts and being i see a lot of others using Fusion 360 I am going to go back and convert/redo my project files. I will do that one first and share as one assembly. :+1:

Yes it’s basically a 2x4, but it could be a 4x4 or 6x4 whatever. The slots are dogboned so that things will fit super snugly.
It has two other pieces. A top and bottom that fit into the slots on the top and bottom, and a third piece that goes in the middle. I see the middle piece actaully being longer than 1’. So as to help miss match the seems/ connections to give it more rigidity.
It’s 1’ long from base to the opposite ends flat edge. The arrow head isn’t included in the length. It’s to connect to the next one. It’s also 1’ long so I can just toss them in other projects to use up the extra material. That way I can get projects to pay for the frame work of my needed shed/workshop to house the Maslow/Maslows. Aiming for three to be the grunts of a small enterprise.

just a note, personally I don’t trust Autodesk (autocad’s owner) and dislike
what they have done to software (they have sued to prevent people reselling
software they’ve purchased)

I prefer to use onshape.com instead of fusion360, it’s free period, not free
unless you make money. It’s only limitation is that all items you design are
publicly available to others (if you don’t like this, they do have a commercial
version that lets you have private documents)

Oh I hear that. I really hate their subscription based system. I want to buy software and own it, and use it forever if I can.
This subscrition based modle is jsut a way to milk people dry. Like predatory loans and rent to go style places. Just corps taking advantage of people. I haven’t moved to Adobe creative cloud, because it’s subscription based. :rage: Don’t get me started on Apple
but i digress

I’m hoping that scripts can be baked into the files. That way if I add a Techno Pacman it can be noted and saved acordingly in the file. Well really what I’d be hoping is that a series of tool paths can be layered in a file. That would require a proceed comand after end mills have been swapped. but i fear that’s some pie in the sky dreams.

@bdillahu, the panel saw carriage will be shaped like an extremely short table, with the legs reaching down past the plane of the spoilboard to reach the unistrut. Of course, I’ll have to make sure the legs are stiff enough to keep everything straight and plumb.

@jwolter, Ah, makes sense… thanks!

Ok @dlang here’s that file. It’s not the entire assembly. Learning Fusion 360 and I think I might need to watch a few vids.
I would include the G-Code, but I’m already lost at the moment. Once I figure all that out I’ll gladly update the zip
Laminated 2x4 4wide assembly Completed.zip (523.4 KB)
^^^^Edited completed cad file^^^^
Once I have the floor plate and headers complete I’ll upload in a final zip package. Honestly I doubt that the spine is absolutely necessary, but I’m a habitual overbuilder.
I’m shooting for a package that will have:
2x4’s
2x6’s
2x8’s
2x10’s
4x4’s
4x6’s
4x8’s
6x6’s
6x8’s
Floor plate/sills that have tie in junctions
Headers that have tie in junctions
Window and door headers and sills
and a cross member
complete with G-Code. Which I’ll either upload here on on a stand alone thread. <-- That way it would be searchable.

My maslow frame will be made out of aluminum. I think 3x3" square tube with 1/8" wall is what i will be using. Much stiffer than 2x4s

My maslow frame will be made out of aluminum. I think 3x3" square tube with 1/8" wall is what i will be using. Much stiffer than 2x4s

Remember it’s only the parts that support the motors that are critical. With the
frame design I’m proposing, that’s just the top beam.

It’s better to have the motors tight to the beam and move the entire beam out to
keep the chains straight than it is to have brackets on the beam to move the
motors out (moving the motors out produces more leverage to bend things)

the stock design has a lot of places that give the chains leverage to bend
things.

I agree, it’s not as pretty as the stock design, but from what we are seeing
about the effects of small errors, the increased rigidity should help accuracy
significantly.

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Finished that whole assembly can I edit, delete, and replace? Or would it be better to just upload final in new comment and delete original? not versed at all on forum capabilities.

as an experiment, I’d say try both. I don’t know how edits look in e-mail, so
let’s find out :slight_smile:

David Lang
kk

The edit function is fully functional. Guess devs think of everything.

but when you edit, people in ‘mailing list mode’ don’t get any notification

Looks like even the “online” notifications (when you are watching a thread on the web interface) don’t get notifications of edits either, so we may need to remember to “mention it” in another post so everybody get’s a notification.

@iRoc999 thanks for the files… very interesting, and now that I’ve seen all the parts, not at all what I was thinking. I wonder about the “side pieces” falling out - but I guess a little glue would fix that up.

Oh all intesecting parts would have a nice coat of glue for best results, but if the set up is doing it’s job the parts should hold pretty tight on their own.

Guess they didn’t think of that. Good thing I did.

One part-way fix is to take a 2x4 and mount it on edge on the back of the frame components. It will help, but not as much as a torsion box. It is also a technique to help keep a 2x4 relatively straight.

Another hint is to paint the lumber before assembly, at least on the non-bearing surfaces. It will help with stability due to humidity changes. … Just an observation I have made over time.

2 Likes

if the motors are solid in relationship to each other, you don’t need a torsion
box on the rest of the machine, as nothing else in the frame is critical to
accuracy.

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On the topic of moisture and warping for the beam - what big box lumber would be best for avoiding moisture warp? Osb, pressure treated 2x6’s, something else? Maybe there’s a 10 ft steel fence pole that could be used?

how about backing the motor mounts with a crossbeam like this?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClarkDietrich-ProSTUD-1-1-4-in-x-6-in-x-12-ft-20-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wall-Framing-Stud-120159/206843784

Or this, which is considerably stiffer (and spendier). It’s also usable for swamp rat fences so you might have some on hand already.