I’ve designed these but I’ve just been measuring up my garage and I could go for wall mounted anchors but still cut horizontal as my garage is 2.8m wide but 8m long so I was gonna go 3.8mx2.8m for my anchors… My question is,
If my board was on the floor on a sacrificial piece of timber, could my anchor points be on the wall at say 250mm from the floor or would it affect the accuracy of the Maslow being higher than the cut surface of my sheet material?
Thanks
Dan
I’m not mechanical … so take this opinion with a grain of salt …
With anchors at 250 mm … your 15mm spoil board and your 15mm project board stacked … plus the height of the take-ups on the maslow4 … the anchors are somewhere around 150 mm above your maslow4.
The difference in angle for your belts as you get close to an anchor might make a few inches on the edges of the project board a bit less accurate.
I think the measured belt length is the hypotenuse of your triangle, but the actual distance from your anchor on the project board is the Cosine of that magical angle your belt makes between horizontal and your anchor point.
I would suggest that you add some blocking beneath your spoil board (leveled of course) as the easiest fix.
Is it worth mounting your wall anchors at different heights, matching the height of the maslow4 take-ups? I have not read anything in the threads about going to that extent (but I have not read all of the threads)
The edges is what I was worried about but I hoped having the anchors wider it’d get rid of that issue… At what height do the belts come from the Maslow?
I thought about raising the spoil board on a frame but it just seems too much faffing about if it wasn’t needed… I have racking in the garage and with the bottom shelf clear the belt would actually go though it 
I’d bring the anchor off the wall 50mm so it extends past the leg of the racking but as the belt leaves on an angle I don’t think (even when cutting the top edge of a board) it’d ever hit the leg.
I don’t know the heights. From the pictures, it appears that the 4 belts are on 4 mechanisms, stacked together. I’m OCD enough to adjust the heights of the anchors to match - and label them so I put it up the same way each time - not sure if it will make any practical difference.
I ordered on the last day … so I won’t be getting my kit until mid-april.
nothing wrong with a bit of OCD especially if you’re a maker! 
You won’t be long after me… I’m order 1317 but I happy to wait and watch bugs get sorted one by one 
saves me getting frustrated with it haha
I haven’t specifically tested this, so you’d have to try it to know for sure. My biggest concern is having the anchor points above the router is that they’re gonna be lifting the sled off of the board as you’re cutting so you could end up in a situation where the entire thing lifts up into the air and isn’t sliding on the surface at all anymore. I’m not sure how realistic that is.
I’ll test it when it comes… Looking at the height the belts come from the Maslow, and including my spoil board and board I’m cutting I’d assume my anchors would only be 100/150mm above the belts coming from the maslow. I’ll see if I can mount lower but it’d take a considerable amount of force to lift the Maslow when pulling from 4 wide corners like that I’d guess. But I’ll only know by testing
one thing we found with the old maslow was that not having the chains parallel
to the workpiece (and the chains centered on the center of gravity/center of
force) caused the sled to want to tilt. If the anchors were higher, it would
want to tilt towards the anchor, causing the edge of the sled towards the anchor
to want to dig in, and as you get closer to the edge, it would want to tip over
the edge earler. putting a skirt of material the same height as your workpiece
against the workpiece to give the sled something to ride on helps.
David Lang
I’m in the UK and have a built machine so drop me a DM and I can take any photos / measurements you want.
With the racking in the way, can you not fix the racking to the wall with m10 studs and resin through the legs and then attach to the racking …?
Thanks for the offer, but I’m not that organized (I know - a dis-organized OCD is not congruent)
I’ll be field-fitting when the sled gets here
Thank you so much for sharing your design. I’m in Tennessee. Could anyone recommend a 3D print service to the old man?
We use CraftCloud which is a service which finds you good options. There’s a quick tutorial video on how to use them if you scroll down on this page The Not Shop — Maslow
In my area, each of the county-owned public libraries has a 3D printer available to local residents.
I use my slicer app (the same one they use) to check for errors then correct anything. It also tells me how long it will take for them to print it (they’ve set a maximum time limit). The app also determines the approximate amount of (PLA only) filament (the cost is based on the amount of filament used to print my specific piece). They also have a size limit (so it can fit within the volume of their specific printer).
I send the .stl file to them. They respond back that they received it then a few days later they send an email to me that says it is ready to be picked up. For me, the cost and convenience is very reasonable.
You may want to look into something similar in your area. I even found a high school kid in my neighborhood that had a 3D printer. You may also want to look for a local makerspace, community college or just a person or group that may print it out at a minimal cost.