Got both of my printers in today. Decided to just buy new ones instead of trying to resurrect my old Anet A8’s.
So as of this weekend I’ll be setting them up, and printing out upgraded parts, and getting them fine tuned and printing the best of their ability, which should be really good.
I’m working with a 220x270x300 build volume, and my point to this thread is, I’d like to contribute more to this community. So if anyone needs parts printed, I would only charge actual shipping and actual material costs. Nothing more. I’ll have 2 working machines again, and can help out when my machines are free. Which as of right now, won’t be the case, since as I said, I’ll be printing out upgrade parts for them. But I don’t expect that to be more than a few days.
Shoot me a message if you need something and we’ll hash out the details!
I primarily print in PLA+ (almost as strong as abs, with no warping) I have quite a few colors, and could order specific colors if I don’t have what you’re looking for. Even if it’s hot pink. LOL
Could you post thumbnails images of parts you could offer that either you have already printed for your set-up or that others have used to improve their set up? I appreciate the offer but don’t know what I need until I see it (I need to shop by browsing). It doesn’t have to be everything, just a few suggestions on prints.
I have tried printing (on a Prusa i3 clone) parts for the “yet another z axis mod”, but had a lot of warping or lifting, and haven’t got back at it. Still a lot to learn I guess. But right now I’m not sure if I’ll go that route, since I am not sure I trust a printed 3D part for holding the router, and may just build a c beam type z axis with a metal clamp, or invest in the metal Maslow sled.
Hey @garrett1812 , PetG might be a good filiament for that. I have only printed with it once, but it seemed to not warp as easily as ABS. When I was super successful with ABS, it was done on a PEI sheet. When I got it, I roughed it up a bit with a fine grit sandpaper, and wiped it down with alcohol, and I never had a warping issue again. Even on a 26 hour print of a vending machine I did haha If you order that metal sled kit, you’ll love it. Just make sure, when you order it you specify you have the Ridgid Router (If that’s the one you have) and that you want the narrow plate. Or you’ll end up with something that doesn’t work right.
@Jayster I will try to find some photos of stuff I’ve done. Mostly I’ve just printed printer upgrades, and kitty cat key chains that are used for self defense. LOL The ladies need that extra protection at night ya know?
Here are some things I’ve made not related to Maslow. These were done on my old A8’s.
@Metalmaslow offers different gantry plates for different routers & clamps. The Ridgid is quite a bit larger than most routers, so it throws off the center of gravity quite a bit. To combat that, you have to raise the linkage with spacers to keep the top of the sled from lifting off the material. If you get the regular plate, it won’t go down between the newly raised linkage arms. The narrow plate will go between them with no problem.
That vending machine is too cool! When I get my shed up and my Maslow moved to it I may ask you to print some stuff for me. Thanks for offering this to the community!
@SnailPowered You’re welcome! I should be up and running by then for sure, printing out my upgrades as we speak. That vending machine was fun to print. Took 26 hours, and every minute it was printing I was scared something was going to go wrong. But it didn’t, and it turned out great. The coin mech actually works and all! Even has a place on the back to put a padlock
@buhlig the metal maslow sled comes with a rectangular dust shoot thing. It’s just a box with 2 holes basically, closed off on the end. One hole is for the router bit, and the other is for the hose connection. It mounts under the c-beam, and the c-beam bolts go through it. I think. I didn’t use it on mine, but it looks like you’re able to put a screw in hose adapter and have the option to hook your hose to it. But now that you mention it. I wonder if I could design something a little more practical. I’ll grab it when I’m at my shop tomorrow and get some measurements.
Those are some really cool designs!! I like that last one a lot. I wonder if it could be repurposed to work with it. Have the entire router go inside it, and catch all the dust and chips. If you get one, you’ll see why I say ‘the entire router going inside it’ haha That C-Beam catches ALOT of dust.
@wcs39204@buhlig The “rectangular dust chute thing” that comes with the MetalMaslow works surprisingly well for all its apparent simplicity. I am mainly routing MDF these days, so dust control is a must. I have 1-1/4" to 1-7/8" hose adapter plugged into the MetalMaslow that then feeds a Dust Deputy on a 5-gal bucket before the suction of a very old shop vac. The fit of the vacuum hose is pretty tight with the limited space of between the connection point and the z-axis motor.
There are four screws that go through the dust chute do fine with chips and fine dust particles, but if your designs result in match-stick sized pieces coming off, you have to stop and clear the chute every 30-60 minutes.
@btodcox I bet it works great, I just didn’t hook it up because I had issues with my Metal Maslow sled kit, and it kinda put me outta commission for a couple of weeks. By the time it all got sorted and I got all the parts I needed, I was just ready to get back to cutting haha! The open end, i’m assuming that goes towards the router, and the closed end, to the bottom of the sled? I never even really gave it more than a glance when I pulled it out of the box. I know he said the c-beam goes on top of it, and the screws went through the dust chute and into the bottom of the c beam. Or at least that’s how I took it. I’m 99% of the time cutting MDF myself, and could REALLY use that in my setup 'cause MAN that stuff slings some dust. SO worth it tho, because Maslow really shines on MDF!
@wcs39204 … just got a nice idea for some “printed” part to help calibration! Just close your eyes and trying to imagine this: A contour in the shape of a 10 teeth sprocket, like a wheel house, and at 90 degrees a small surface, like a rudder, with one side being center sprocket … this would greatly assist to measure the distance of motors with i.e. a lasermeter as well as for the sprockets 12 o’clock alignments … specifically for all the “one-man-shows” out there … you follow?
So something to slide tightly over the sprocket, while it’s in the 12 o’clock position, with a vertical tab on the edge for a tape measure to ‘hook’ on to? Am I visioning this accurately?
@wcs39204 … I would just increase size of the vertical tab a little bit … and I assume you did already, the inner side wall must be inline with the center of the sprocket …
@garrett1812@wcs39204
Here’s some pics of the dust chute that comes with @Metalmaslow. I am using the MetalMaslow upgrade kit for the Ridgid router and have the large gantry plate (not the narrow plate that @wcs39204 mentions). You can see in the Top Angle View pic below where the gantry plate movement is limited by the linkage spacers alignment with the edge of the gantry plate. I agree with @wcs39204 that the smaller gantry plate would be better for chain alignment and less restricted z-axis movement.
Would be nice if someone (hint, hint) with good 3d drawing skills would render a 60 or 90 degree 1-1/4" to 1-7/8" shop vac hose adapter! I could then see how well it prints on my new 3d printer!
