Maslow Home Maslow Community Garden Newsletter

2nd Ridgid router z-axis failed

Ok, well I love my Maslow when it is working…lol. That seems to be the trick…now I am at a point where I need to repair or replace the Z-axis on the Ridgid router. I have looked at the Metal Mazlow and Makermade z axis replacememt upgrades and would love to try one but the price tag is holding me back. I do not have access to a 3d printer, and I cannot get my machine to run well enough to cut the Meticulous Z-Axis. I did see the " Inexpensive fixes for z-axis slack imprecision on Maslow CNC" article. I was wondering if I could modify the Ridgid roulter z-axis to accept one of these. Lead Screw Set

Any suggestions?

what failed on your machine? was it the plastic part? or something else?

roughly where do you live, other people with 3d printers could print a part for
you and send it? I have a couple extra replacements on hand (will need some
filing/sanding to work well, but should be close)

David Lang

I ma not sure of the name of the part.

It has developed slop…I saw a few inexpensive fixes listed here somewhere…

Rigid calls it the Depth Interlock Lever P/N 640963002
They can be purchased here:

Part- Depth Interlock Lever

You should pick up a couple of the Adjustment Button Housings too P/N 513396001
They can be purchased here:

Part - Adjustment Button Housing

What has hapened is that the lead screw that comes with the router base has worn out the bore. It comes down to this part being asked to do a job that it was never designed to do. It was intended to be used purely to manualy adjust the router depth of cut but then not have to carry much of a load during router operation because the router would have been clamped in place after adjustment. We are using it as a drive nut that is under continuous load. I went through them a lot so I used to keep several spares on hand. I eventualy upgraded to a modified version of the MET-Z. There are fixes for this problem but you are honestly better just fixing your existing router and get things working to the point you can make a MET-Z.

on mine, it’s not just the plastic part that failed, the metal part got chewed
up as well. I designed a replacement in onshape, but I think I need to tweak it
a bit more (so some filing may be needed), I got 4 printed in nylon, I’ll send
Rick one of them and have him report on what needs to be tweaked about it :slight_smile:

David Lang

2 Likes

That might be the better route because e-replacement parts only has one (1) in stock now anyway.

Wow Guys,

I am really overwhelmed! Thanks! Send me a bill too! I appreciate the help and will definitely leave feedback. Oh and I bought that last one!

Rick

2 Likes

Rick, welcome to the Family!! This is why I love this machine and the community that it has grown. You’ll find most around here the will help in any ay they can. I have a couple of printers, so if you need anything printed, just let me know.

Cheers,
Rick

2 Likes

Thank you c00nphrog,

I really am just learning how to use the Maslow CNC, I am on my second Ridgid router, first one burned through the bushings, this forum helped me locate a replacement set of bushings, but I bought another one for backup…now the z-axis issue…I ordered a z-axis replacement from Metal Maslow, but he was not capable of filling the order…after waiting 6 weeks I cancelled the order. I have looked at the Maker Made upgrade, it looks nice but carries a nice price tag too…now I have found the Metaculous Z thread and it had my interest. I am seriously considering a 3d printer. Can you suggest some models? If they can be used to make parts for tools…or the tools themselves…they could become a serious tool in the shop. Regarding your offer to make some parts, I am looking at some 3d printed z-axis replacement ideas. Any suggestions? Lol - I gotta do something to keep this thing running…

Thanks
Rick

As far as 3D printers, I have an Ender 3 and and Ender 3 Max, so I can really only speak to them. As a whole, I have read many good things on the Creality models (Ender Series and CR series), but there are others that have opinions on other brands. Again, I can’t really speak to them though. The original printer I got (Ender 3) required a bit of learning and tuning, but through that, I knew what to expect and do for the Ender 3 Max when I got it. not to mention, the technology the printers come with have vastly improved (even over the last 3 years). Ultimately, it will come down to what features you want and really how much do you want to pay ($$$). As with most things in this realm, you’ll pay for convenience (less time putting together and tuning/tinkering) of just taking it out of the box, putting a few screws in, and then plug it in and go. All in all though, MHO is that most printers out on the market today are pretty capable. I would recommend one from a company that has a good following (one that has a FB group, or forum type community like this) that can be used to lean on if you run into any troubles.

As for the Z axis, I am a little partial to the MET-Z (as I have built it and currently use it). I have seen others on the forum here, and haven’t heard of any complaints about them. That is the beauty of this machine…if you can think of it, and it seems to work with the basic idea overall of how the machine works, then go for it. Whatever will work for your budget (and yes, the MakerMade z axis has a very nice price tag) and knowledge I am sure will be worth it. I know there are some that have posted and made a very similar Z-axis to it for far cheaper (something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Zeberoxyz-Aluminum-Profile-Actuator-Printer/dp/B08SLXTWVH/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2GRGDRSS10EUV&keywords=z-axis&qid=1641310316&sprefix=z-a%2Caps%2C575&sr=8-13&th=1). All you would need to do is figure out a clamping system for the router, and getting it mounted to the sled with the router centered on the hole. But again, that could be time consuming and may not be worth it to you.

Well I broke down and bought a used Ender 3 pro of Ebay. I intend to make the MET-Z, so
if you don’t mind, I would like to bug you regarding that…what kind of filament should I buy?

Regarding Maslow CNC, I am still dead in the water…waiting for dlang’s shipment of the depth interlock lever. I ordered a metal replacement from ereplacementparts.com, but a am a little reluctant using it having burned out 2 metal ones already. Hopefully it will work long enough to cut the parts for the Meticulous Z. Looking forward to this upgrade…:slight_smile:

Rick

i meant to ask, are you using the bugee over the router trick and if so, how much tension do you have on the bungee?

I used a bungee, and it worked for awhile. Regarding the tension,
It might have been to much for the system. I was having trouble with
varying depths, and when I saw the bungee cord fix I think I used a bungee
that was a little to taunt. Either way the stock z-axis setup on the Maslow though
being a working solution and appreciated, did not stand up to the test of time.
I hope the community implements the Meticulous Z and replaces the original with it.
It will hopefully make the Maslow a production machine that has reduced down time! lol

Rick

the community is open. We are all owners/volunteers answering your questions. The only way the available kits change is if the kit sellers change them. The evolution of z axis came as this happened again and again, but to get a nicer z axis typically puts a kit at 2x the price. You can buy upgraded options or make your own meticulous or even morph your own variation of it if you like. I did my own since I thought the meticulous was a bit too large. I used a 200 mm long 8mm pitch ball screw kit from amazon with a 60 tooth 1/4" shaft size and 20 tooth 8 mm shaft size timing gear and belt. I used some plywood and screws to hold it together with a pocket jig. A 3D printed clamp would have worked as well, but I made one with a jig saw because I didn’t have a design for one.

post here.

The important part is to make sure the router is centered in the ring, and as long as the bit is perpendicular to the sled sliding surface and it doesn’t bind or have slop in it, it should work fine. I think I spent $40 on parts and it took some effort and time, but was totally worth it. If the thing flexes when it is cutting it may make a ton of noise and/or break bits. My system was loud because of the resonance of the clamp pieces, but it cut awesome and repeatable.

2 Likes

One thing to remember is that the Maslow is very much always a work in progress. At least until one gets the bugs worked out. The Z-axis has been a very active area as far as improvements are concerned. I would definately encourage you to browse the forums for ideas on improving / making the Z. So, so many people have come up with really good solutions. My point is the MET-Z is by no means the only solution or even the best one. It’s one of many good DIY solutions. I don’t want to fail to mention that there are also Z-Axis upgrades available from at least two of the vendors.

Just to add to @Orob ‘s point, I took the idea of the original MET-Z and made my own version because the original design was a bit too big for me (like @Orob said). I also wanted something that lended itself more to hand fabrication and utilized the original Maslow sled design. I also changed the joinery from mortise and tennon to dado becasue I never could get the M&T joints to fit right.

I wound up with this:

I ended up cutting the parts with my stock router base sled. So it is Maslowable.

2 Likes

@jonatpridesleap that is clean! You make nice stuff. The knobs holding the weights and the latch hook to hold the sled is very nice.

2 Likes

I agree with Orob! Got any more pictures! :grin: I was wondering where the bricks were…

1 Like

thanks. i got really lucky though. almost made it too small. i used the thumb knobs on my spindle clamps to make pulling the router out for tool changes easier. forgot about the clearance needed when the chain carriages swing to the center of the ring when the sled is in the lower corners. i had to swap out the lower thumb knob for a button head cap screw to eliminate the interference. i guess you can only model so much in virtual space :crazy_face:

I also need to finish the dust shield…