I was hoping to finish my build and documentation today. Last night just before goin on a date with my wife I dropped a graphic representing 50% of the layout on the build manual. The program I was using unexpectedly closed. I thought it had minimized it’s window. I couldn’t locate the program in the system tray. That is when I had a sinking feeling. I still thought they must have a recovery feature. I opened the program to fresh layout with no content. Lesson learned , saving every 30 min. I lost 2.5 days work. I’ve been able to recreate it in half a day. I however think the previous layup was better.
Here is a screen shot form the current version to get an idea what it will be like.
Ok the stars aligned today to allow me to finish the 80/60 build. I will work on finishing “the build manual” as soon as I can. Here is what the finished build looks like.
There was some concern on the 80/60 and the motor mounts. It still need to be proved out, however the top rail on the 80/60 is 3/4 inch forward of the original motor mounting. I think it will be fine.
Here is a shot of the motor mounts on my temp frame.
I had no one else around to take a picture of me. I’m just shy of 200 lbs (14.25 Stones). This is a shot of me standing on the 80/60 frame balanced on one foot while taking the picture. I had no flex where I am standing. I’m 1 foot (305 mm) off the ground hanging on 4 screws. There is a 3 inch (76 mm) gap between the ground and bottom of the board.
Yes - it should work with all of the original hardware. You would need to add a space at the bottom to tie the stretchy cord if you are not converting to the top style. Other than that it’s all good.
I put together my frame based on the 80/60 design this weekend. Overall the build went well, but now that I went to put a sheet of plywood on it to cut my sled I realize the plywood I cut for the frame is warped fairly significantly. I thought we’d picked a fairly flat sheet for the frame, but I guess not. I can put a sheet on it, but mainly because all my sheets seem to have a similar warp to them.
I’m not sure if I should add some bracing to try to straighten it or just get some better plywood and replace the warped pieces.
I chose to add bracing. Here in the Pacific Northwest, I find that plywood warps morte often than not. A warped sheet caused problems that went away when It was braced flat.
There’s not a single flat sheet of plywood in my shed. They look nice and flat at the store because they are sitting flat-wise in a somewhat controlled environment, with other sheets stacked on top of it. Get it out in the real world and store it on edge and it’s warp city.
Brace up your backboard to get it as flat as possible and when you put your work piece on, clamp and/or screw it to the backboard.
You can use the 80/60 outer skirt to mount more 2 x 4s vertically to pull a piece flatter. Is OSB more stable in your climate? If so you could use it for the outer skirt.
Im going to do it the new way. Do you have any pictures of your set up with all the hardware on it? I thought i read in another thread that you were considering adding another 2x4x10 to put the motors on so the chainswill be more parallel with the work surface when connected to the sled.
I have the linkage kit that ill be using with it too, so im trying to figure out how high ill need to make the riser blocks with this build too.
Thanks again for the manual you put together, it made building this pretty easy. Since its the only design with a skirt I think its the only one that realizes the true 4x8 workspace.
You are correct that it is the only design that has 100% access. I’m going back and forth between testing multiple designs and the original frame. I need to put together my top beam this week. I can try to get pictures up this weekend. I’m in between on which slack system to use.