I’m starting this thread as a temporary parking spot for my stream of consciousness thoughts and observations in one spot to help flesh out an outline for a future summary document.
Don’t feel the need to answer any specific questions in here, a lot of this is musing to myself to help the developers and contributors get a sense of one new users thought process as they proceed through initial setup. I will post questions on their own in appropriate areas/threads as best I can so they are in a useful spot for the next person, and then summarize in my final document.
BACKGROUND
I purchased one of the last batch of kits from Bar and Hannah. Due to a move and life it has sat unbuilt for about 9 months. I intend to build it in the coming 30 days. I am an inexperienced woodworker <1 year but spending time on it daily and thoroughly enjoying it. I come from a tech (business side) background but have no formal electronics or coding skills.
And now, a train of thought mostly to myself…
FRAMES AND CHAINS
Trying to decide what to do with a frame. The garage has an unusually low ceiling at just over 8’ as it is finished and has living space above it. Also, it lacks wall space due to the previous owner putting in a whole raft of shelves that I can’t remove. Going to have to place the frame on a wall with two windows I want accessible for airflow/dust ventilation.
From reading I know best accuracy on a 4x8 will be achieved with at least a 12’ top beam at an increased height from the main work area. I -think- this would still fit height wise in my garage but haven’t found a conclusive answer.
A 12’ beam means I need longer chain. Checked Princess Auto locally but they only report the chain (#25 roller chain, had to dig to find that) in 10’ lengths. Unclear if you can buy multiples of 10’ without breaking it or if they are pre-bagged. Intend to check this afternoon. Would prefer not to get in to chain breaking and extending myself, seems like a rabbit hole of time with little value.
Found chain from 1-25’ length from McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr
If I decide to go with the bigger beam I will probably buy 14’ lengths (TBD from forum feedback) and be done with it.
All that being said, my vehicle can (enclosed) comfortably carry 42" x 78" sheet goods (cut the excess off at home depot - they have a very nice Streiberg panel saw that is super accurate… smaller local hardware store I would like to support but one man loading on to an old table saw is not giving me super accurate sizing needed to squeeze in to my vehicle). So, if I initially accept that my work area will be constrained to 42" x 78", my expectation is that my accuracy can be pretty good (if positioned on center) as the outside lower corners won’t actually be as low or as outside as a fully sheet.
I really want to get the Maslow up and running so I think I’m going to accept the smaller cutting area and the fact I may have to build a new/larger frame in the future if I want full 4x8. At best, with a bed extender I made my XC90 can only do 42" x 96" so I’d still be 6" short on height. I think getting up and going is more important and my enclosed carry size is big enough to have fun.
Frames are all over the place and all have pluses and minuses. Community is great that way, but so many to choose from. In the interests of time and simplicity and with the understanding that I think I will rebuild it later anyway, I’m going to do the @Bee 80/60 build as it is quick and fast and should meet most of my needs. Will put it together with pocket holes (since I have a Kreg K4 jig - highly recommended) and end drilling is always of questionable strength in the long run.
Saw him say this and don’t quite know what it means yet about the old style or top style:
@Bee has done amazing documentation and I am using his PDF as a reference although it’s not all completely clear to me yet. A side on view showing all the depths would help a lot.
Weights and bungees etc. are unclear, it seems like the original brick idea varies quite a bit by source of bricks. Saw someone today had bought simple barbell weights at Walmart and put them on with large bolts. That seems like a great way to get fairly accurate weights, noted he used 7lb weights.
Reading through @Bee’s excellent docs I think I have a handle on things and I -think- the design already moves the motors forward the recommended amount so the chains are in the optimal position to the work piece. If someone can confirm it would be appreciated.
Time to go finish my zero clearance fence for my chop saw so I can put it back together to be ready to cut things.