The most important thing to look for in a motor is that the output shaft is offset from the center. There is not a lot of clearance between the motor and the router so the offset is important. It should also be reasonably torquey.
Fortunately the gear boxes for this type of motor are fairly standardized so finding one with a similar profile to the one we use shouldn’t be too difficult.
I ordered four of the 90-degree worm-drive motors from you, since they seem difficult to source. Each comes with a cable. I don’t suppose one of those cables would work?
And in case you guys don’t hear it often enough. This is an awesome project. I can hardly wait for my online-ordered parts to start coming in…
That motor should work great! The 11rpm model will be slower than the stock one, and the 22rpm model will be faster. I chose one which is slow and has a lot of torque to work with just about any router, but I bet you could go faster and probably be better off.
You can absolutely use one of the extra cables from the big motors, that’s a great idea! You will have to cut one end off and splice it to the cable on the motor, but that’s pretty easy.
Thanks for the kind words! We’re along for the ride too at this point It’s been so much fun to see the weird thing I built in my garage given life by this awesome community. I can’t wait for your parts to arrive either . Happy build!
Remember that this then goes into another gear reduction (the lead screw or belt
drive)
This increases the force available and decreases the speed.
both of these are more powerful than the ‘main’ motors
So I would suggest going for something significantly faster
It may even be worth trying for the smaller size with the 200 rpm version (but
that is a very large jump) I’m pretty sure the 66 rpm version will be powerful
enough and still two sizes smaller than the 11 rpm version
Many people are finding that their 3D speeds are being limited by the Z axis
speed
Ok, I’ve got the motor on order. Its output shaft is 6mm in diameter. Do you happen to know the diameter of the depth-adjust shaft of the Rigid R22002 so I can find an appropriate shaft coupler?
If I remember correctly the diameter is 3/8" of an inch. I found a 3/8"-6mm coupler on McMaster that is the same style of coupler as what comes with the Z-Axis kit. You may be able to find them cheaper than that somewhere else.
If I were to buy one of these motors, can someone help me with coming up with the value for the encoder steps per revolution? Is that the only parameter I would need to update? I knocked my sled over while working on it and am pretty sure i took out the Z axis motor in the process (wont pass the motor test on 1.00 or 1.02).
I’d be interested to see if the motor you bought is a drop in replacement for the stock z-axis motor. I’ve seen some posts on minor wiring differences with motors, but the solutions seemed very straight forward, so I am optimistic.