Changing Bit Procedure

The first 1-7 subroutine is fine for setting Z assuming you have a touchplate but it does not accomodate other ways of setting Z like using an index card and not everyone will have a contact capability.

Good but not ideal for all situations. Moving the sled introduces potential for process misalignment. And dropping Z with a tool installed is going to break things. The UI will need user confirmation to proceed each step too. Though my M4 is not assembled yet maybe my thinking that we can keep the sled from shifting in the X and Y when trying to physically lock during toolchange is unrealistic anyway :thinking:

gazinux wrote:

The first 1-7 subroutine is fine for setting Z assuming you have a touchplate but it does not accomodate other ways of setting Z like using an index card and not everyone will have a contact capability.

There is no safe way to put an index card under the bit.

what you could do is manually set the zero by brushing the top of the workpiece

Good but not ideal for all situations. Moving the sled introduces potential for process misalignment. And dropping Z with a tool installed is going to break things. The UI will need user confirmation to proceed each step too. Though my M4 is not assembled yet maybe my thinking that we can keep the sled from shifting in the X and Y when trying to physically lock during toolchange is unrealistic anyway :thinking:

true, but for some setups, it’s going to be far easier to change the bit that
way.

David Lang

Steven Marcus wrote:

to the second method in dlang’s message I’m not sure what is meant by accessing the chuck under the sled and how that would actually work.

The Kobalt router has the button and chuck much further ‘down’ than the dewalt
router, so if you cut the sled appropriately, you can run Z all the way down and
get at the button and chuck from under the sled.

David Lang

Interesting. Thanks for the info

I’m looking for something like your 2nd option. Even with the Z all the way up, most of the bits I have are too long to come out between the router and the workpiece. I was thinking of cutting an addition piece to mount next to my spoilboard with a hole in it that would allow the bit to come out and use that as my Zero, but I’m not sure if that would work or if I can even jog the maslow beyond the 4x8 workpiece that I setup initially. Thoughts (other than buy shorter bits, which i will try to find in the future)…

yes you can jog the machine past the initial calibration size, don’t worry about
that