Current state of affairs - Spindle vs Router in Australia?

Hi!

Super excited to have my Maslow kit turn up on my front door today, it caught me a bit by surprise!
Over the past few months I’ve been dipping in and out of the forums looking at what I need to purchase, including the router be gone thread.
For us in Australia, as mentioned many times on the forums, the Dewalt is very expensive.

for a new user, what would you do?

I want something that will just work long term, and preferably be quiet-ish. Is a spindle the way to go?
Which one?

Thanks!

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I would go with a spindle, no more expensive than the routers and will last
longer for this work and be quieter.

David Lang

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Brilliant - this was where I’m leaning towards. Is there a current recommendation that has good price / performance for the 4.1 kit?

Hi Benny,
I am on the Central Coast NSW. I went with the Dewalt, but it is expensive. The cord sits straight up (American model comes out the side) and the pattern is different for the top of the router, so the supplied support won’t fit. In one of the forums someone has suggested putting the circuit board on the sled, which would require extending some of the leads.
Are you going to go horizontal or vertical?

Ben wrote:

Brilliant - this was where I’m leaning towards. Is there a current recommendation that has good price / performance for the 4.1 kit?

The router-b-gone thread was based on a 500w spindle from aliexpress (with power
supply) go look at those threads. There is another one that’s slightly bigger
and more powerful (and has a bigger chuck) that I purchased for my use (but
haven’t setup yet), but it takes a different size sleeve to fit, just like a
makita, etc would.

I’m pretty sure the links to the spindles were posted in those threads (@bar, we
need to have a reference page that has links to significant threads like the
router-b-gone, the various frame design threads, etc)

David Lang

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Hey Ian,

Ah great to hear. I was definitely tossing up just spending the money to get the one that it’s made for, but I’m slightly leaning towards David’s recommendation of the spindle now if it’s not too much modification.

I’m going to have to have it vertical at this stage.
Based in the Southern Highlands NSW here. How’s yours working out for you?

Ah great. I’ve been hunting around for the right thread, so that helps immensely. Thanks, I’ll go and take a look.

I had mine working as a horizontal setup then we lost the venue where I had set it up (school sold). I have just got it working with a vertical setup at home, but haven’t actually cut anything since the move.
I think a spindle would give you more flexibility, bit more complicated to set up. There are a number of people who have gone that way and it would also mean it’s possible to use alternates like drawing and lasers if you wanted to explore those options.

I did the original router-be-gone, and having used a router as well I would strongly recommend going with a spindle.

Get one with its own power supply, which should include a speed control. There’s fancy-pants brushless versions etc. etc., but honestly any spindle is better than a router. Also get one with an ER something chuck and a set of collets. ER-11 will hold up to about 7mm diameter bits/ drills

The sleeve(s) you will need to print with a 3D printer, and probably modify an existing design to exactly match your spindle. You’ll need to use at least PETG filament as PLA has just too low a melting point.

I did my design to mount the PCB above the spindle (similar to a regular M4 setup), which meant I didn’t have to re-cable anything. However, there’s an awesome design that mounts the PCB to the sled, and runs slightly longer cables to connect the PCB to the arms.

Do you think this would work?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008074355256.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4b6538daxDtokE&mp=1&pdp_npi=5%40dis!AUD!AUD%20325.88!AUD%20161.68!!!!!%402103244b17434137837768709ee0de!12000043546717447!ct!AU!-1!!1!0

Looks like it’s a 65mm spindle body. I like the idea of getting the 800watt and higher RPM up front, from what I’ve gleaned from the forum that would be advantageous?

However, there’s an awesome design that mounts the PCB to the sled, and runs slightly longer cables to connect the PCB to the arms

That sounds like the best option - I’ve done a search on the forum but can’t find it - any clues as to the thread, or a link to something I can print or copy to attach?
Cheers

Ben wrote:

Do you think this would work?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008074355256.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4b6538daxDtokE&mp=1&pdp_npi=5%40dis!AUD!AUD%20325.88!AUD%20161.68!!!!!%402103244b17434137837768709ee0de!12000043546717447!ct!AU!-1!!1!0

Looks like it’s a 65mm spindle body. I like the idea of getting the 800watt and higher RPM up front, from what I’ve gleaned from the forum that would be advantageous?

It will work, my only concern would be that it pulls air up through the spindle
for cooling, that will draw in sawdust. The inverter will give you good speed
control, but is a bit bulkier than the other options I show below (you may want
to get a long 4-wire cord to go between the motor and the inverter and not try
to put the inverter on the sled)

we actually want lower rpm for most of our work rather than higher rpms

I am setting up two (one for me, one for a local makerspace) and the spindles I
purchased are:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804360852424.html

and
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806131752489.html

at least one of them has a separate chuck (where the one you listed it looks
like the chuck is part of the shaft) and I was able to go to a larger er-20
chuck to hold larger bits.

the brushless one will hold it’s speed better than the DC spindle, so it will be
better at lower speeds, even though it’s ‘only’ 100w more powerfule.

but as I say, I haven’t mounted any of these yet.

David Lang

David,

Thanks so very much for taking the time to respond - it’s really appreciated.
I’ve now got the 600watt one you purchased in my cart - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005004547167176.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Is this the one you’d purchase for an all rounder best option? I don’t want to gold plate the thing, but don’t want to be replacing weak components in too short of a time either.

I must admit, I’m now thoroughly confused! I’ve been reading that higher RPMs usually mean cleaner cuts, but there’s obviously much more to it than I’m seeing.
I’d also love to be able to start cutting aluminium as per this thread, so would the 600 watt spindle be powerful enough / more suitable than say the 900watt Dewalt?
: Cutting thick (ish) aluminum

Ben wrote:

Thanks so very much for taking the time to respond - it’s really appreciated.
I’ve now got the 600watt one you purchased in my cart - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005004547167176.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Is this the one you’d purchase for an all rounder best option? I don’t want to
gold plate the thing, but don’t want to be replacing weak components in too
short of a time either.

I don’t have any time on the spindle, so this is book learning/logic

A brushless motor gives you more consistant speeds than a brushed DC motor (like
the 500w one). A brushless motor also gives you more power (much more power at
low rpms, a brushed motor gets low rpms by reducing power)

The AC motors with a variable frequency drive like you had posted earlier, are
commonly used in bigger machines.

I prefer a separate chuck so it can be replaced. If you manage to damage the
chunk and it’s part of the shaft, you end up replacing the motor. That said, if
you can get 3 full kits with the chuck built in for the cost of one with a
replacable chuck, that makes up for a lot :slight_smile:

it needs to be <67mm diameter to fit the maslow.

after those considerations, more power is better

I must admit, I’m now thoroughly confused! I’ve been reading that higher RPMs usually mean cleaner cuts, but there’s obviously much more to it than I’m seeing.

the right speed is better. If you spin too fast for your feed rate and bit, you
spend a lot of time with the bit rubbing against the material rather than
cutting. This rubbing heats the bit, destroying the temper of the edge, which
dulls the bit quickly, which makes the cut ragged (and generates more heat)

If you spin to slow, the bit can’t cut out enough material with each flute and
you will break the bit or wander from your cut line.

there is a science for feeds and speeds (look up machining feeds and speeds).
For a given cutter, each cutting flute can cut only so much material before the
gullet between the teeth fills up with material, but you want each tooth to take
a noticable bite of the material (when you do this, a lot of the heat goes into
the chip you take off, not into the bit). So the more flutes you have, the
slower you should spin. The slower the machine moves, the slower you should
spin. If the machine isn’t super ridgid (which the maslow very much is NOT), you
want to take a smaller cut, if only in depth, to reduce the forces on the
machine. Professional Machinists are trying to balance tools wearing out and
breaking against spending more time to get the job done, so their calculations
are aggressive, assume that the machine is ridgid enough to handle the forces,
and that time is your biggest priority. For hobbiests, time is not as much of a
priority, so we usually opt to back off and go slower than the calculations
suggest (our machines are not as ridgid as well, so we can’t cut as
aggressively)

you can really get bogged down in this, and when cutting aluminum you probably
should at least try, but wood is very forgiving (especially soft wood like
pine). So if you just think of ‘chips not sawdust’ you will do a pretty good
job.

If you are getting dust (and especially if the wood is getting burnt), slow down
the rpm, use a bit with fewer flutes, and/or speed up the feed rate. This can
dull bis really quickly, so expect it have have some extras around.

if you are trying to cut too much, the machine will flex and the path will
wander a bit. Take shallower passes and/or more flutes, higher rpm, slower feed
rate. worst case, you will break a bit (especially with small bits), so expect
it and have some extras around.

when you are cutting aluminum, it’s common for the heat to get too high and weld
the aluminum dust/chips to the bit, so expect it and have some extras around (so
you sense a theme here? :slight_smile: )

If the spindle doesn’t have enough power, you can deal with that by making more,
shallower passes.

As a general rule, it’s better to be spinning a bit too slow than too fast.

this is a long answer, but I hope that by explaining the reasoning rathe than
just giving a short answer, you can understand the logic and adapt it to your
own situation.

David Lang

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David, this answer needs to be more generally available. Thanks

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David,

Again, your expertise is incredibly appreciated. The learning curve on this is huge and you’ve taken the time to explain it in a way that I can understand. Thanks.

In general I’ll be cutting ply and some laminated woods - mainly for building van conversion furniture, and then moving on to aluminium.

So the kit linked includes “Flat Bottom V Bit Cutter” and “13 PCS ER11” which I assume are the collets that will accept whatever toolbits I need.
Considering the postage cost to Australia ($90aud!) - I should get a range of bits at the same time, like you said, to have a bunch on hand while I’m learning and breaking things!

Would something like this be a good start? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/4000242633297.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.7ae23087zEaDE4&algo_pvid=4dfae8d1-1ab4-46e1-ab41-c770cc56633f&algo_exp_id=4dfae8d1-1ab4-46e1-ab41-c770cc56633f-2&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"38"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!23.08!12.69!!!14.30!7.86!%402101c5ac17434741427402087e85a6!10000000985031071!sea!AU!230026887!X&curPageLogUid=ThE3PrJ7MAwP&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

or this? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32407739901.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.7ae23087zEaDE4&algo_pvid=4dfae8d1-1ab4-46e1-ab41-c770cc56633f&algo_exp_id=4dfae8d1-1ab4-46e1-ab41-c770cc56633f-1&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"10"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!7.12!6.69!!!4.41!4.14!%402101c5ac17434741427402087e85a6!54344226500!sea!AU!230026887!X&curPageLogUid=wZNNm25oaffT&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

Thanks again

I would get straight bits (not v) and even try some single flute bits

If you are carving 3d curves, then ballnose bits are useful
If you are carving decoration lines, then v-bits can be useful

but the vast majority of your work is probably going to be cutting all the way
through or flat bottomed pickets, so I would go with 1/4" (6-7mm) flat bottomed
bits. see if you can find ones with cutting edges on the bottom (so that it’s
safe and easy to plunge them straight down to drill)

David Lang

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For cutting through or making slots without rounded profiles, you want this type.
XCAN Flat End Mill 6mm Shank 2 Flute Spiral Milling Cutter CNC Router Bit Wood Engraving Bit Carbide End Mill for PVC MDF Wood - AliExpress 1420

I haven’t tried any of these myself, but for that price…
When you figure out what suits your work best and find the correct settings, you might want to go for some “professional” bits from other places.

I found a local dealer here in Norway that sells these for a reasonable enough price (10 different bits for around $340 AUD I’d guess):
Carbide Router Bits | Collections | Rennie Tool Company
They provide chipload and feedrate recommendations for different materials for all their bits, which can be a great help to find a good starting point.

The only one i have tested so far is a 3.175mm 1-Flute UpCut.

@bar Is there an official thread or page for bits and cutters we should use to make some sort of library out of?

And this calculator is of great use:
FSWizard: Speeds and Feeds

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OK great - thanks so much! Just ordered the spindle and a load of bits to try out :slight_smile: Cheers!!

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There isn’t :confused:

This idea comes up quite often, but whenever someone makes one it sort of dies off as soon as folks realize that pretty much any combination of feeds and speeds works OK for cutting plywood. There is a lot of information online about how important the right feeds and speeds are but it mostly comes from the world of CNC milling metal where that is much more important. For cutting wood you can kinda throw any settings in there and it will be OK

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