By the time i show up, all is answered already Thanks @Keith
My 2 fils:
If you put a pin through the tube, it will at least prevent a swinging sled or might even stop the tube from becoming loose. The red line is the link to put on 12 to feed out the chain and the distance from the bit centre for the rotation radius.
with the pin through the link hole (rather than through the middle of the link),
the safety issue is not there, so the first link is correct.
It doesn’t matter a lot if you use the second link (and mark it) because the
calibration step should figure out what the rotation radius really is and add
the extra length for you.
I didn’t find that file i measured the distance between centers shaft and entered it manual in setting inside GC launched, and it’s looks different with automatic measuring
and i dont understand in wich position of sled should i measure “Distance Between Sled Mounting Points”, or should i live deafault setting (because in different position it is ifferent setting)
If you are on win, groundcontrol.ini shoud ne in C:/user/{your-user-name}.
My guess that automatic measuring will tell you a shorter distance then you measure by hand, right?
Go with what you measure.
is an old setting for the brackets and not used with triangular (ring). Same for the next 2 under it, so leave as default.
If you make the setting changes in GC, make sure you shut down GC, un- and re-plug the arduino, and restart GC. When GC has restarted, check if the settings you changed are stored correctly.
You can check the dimensions of a circle first and see if it improved.
The motor distance automatic is off by 50mm, that’s the highest error i’ve seen so far, so if you calibrate again, skip the measure part for the distance. What is the rotation radius GC came up with?
When you look in the settings in GC, there should be a setting for “Rotation Radius”. For the ring system that you have (judging by the pictures you posted, you have the standard ring system which connects to the chains) I believe this number should be 140mm. The setting might be in “advanced settings”
Or do what I did, and find a nail that fits through the end link of the chain. Cut it so that it’s just a little longer than the chain width, and squish the cut end flat (use a hammer or vise or press) once it is inside the chain. No more worries about that link popping off. This essentially turns the nail into a solid rivet that holds the link inside the chain body and prevents it from popping out.
Heades, I ran into this and the problem for me was how I was measuring the cut marks made during calibration.
Be sure of when you’re measuring that you measure exactly as the calibration says. I believe it’s outside of the left cut to the inside of the right cut… i.e. left edge of cut to left edge of cut. You need to do the same for the bottom vertical cuts as well.
I can’t recall what the instructions for the top says, but you’ll want to be sure to measure to the point of the cut the instructions tell you to.
Anyhow, re-calibration and ensuring I was measuring from the correct point of the cut resolved this issue for me.
Thanks @Keith
i measured the distance between centers shaft and entered it manual in setting inside GC launched, and it’s looks different with automatic measuring 