So, i tried to do the sled
http://maslowcommunitygarden.org/Sled-With-Center-Alignment-Jig.html
and that’s what i did 
what should i fix?
Do a search for “Calibration” in the forums to get some info on your options if you have not yet done a calibration of your machine. It looks like a measured parameter might be off.
I totally agree with Keith, do some calibrations, at this point it could be a number of different things so you may have to do a decent amount of testing. I would also say not to get discouraged. I would guess that almost everyone on these forums has had something like this that is discouraging but once you get it going it is very rewarding! Good luck!
And you’ve done most of the hard work in that you have a machine that moves and cuts! Well done already!
If you are up to it, there is a path that is a little longer, but can save time:
- With GC closed, locate the groudcontrol.ini in your user folder
- Open it with a text editor and compare the following entries with what you measure by hand (better 3 times measured then 1 time wrong {Confucius})
[Maslow Settings]
bedheight = 1222 | measure
motoroffsety = 643 | measure
bedwidth = 2444 | measure
motorspacingx = 3501 | measure
rotationradius = 140 | ring 140
- Now start GC and calibrate but skip the ‘pull chain tight’ thing that measures the motor distance. For the other numbers above skip, or enter your masurements
- Close GC after you calibrated and open groudcontrol.ini again
- Compare the same numbers replace those that you think are not close enough to what you measured
- Start GC and cut
Please report back if this helped and also if it did not.
Kind regards, Gero
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Awesome diagram. I love it!
I have been looking for something like this Diagram and Step-by-Step Calibration process for some time to help me get my mind around the Benchmarks.
Although it is a bit more complicated than the “Five Cut Process” associated with Squaring Up the Base of a Cross Cut Sled on a Table Saw, the MASLOW Design is unbelievable in its application.
[Maslow Settings]
bedheight = 1222 | measure
motoroffsety = 643 | measure
bedwidth = 2444 | measure
motorspacingx = 3501 | measure
rotationradius = 140 | ring 140
Now: If the Least Likely to require a “Adjustment” is the rotationradius=140" - Which of the others (and in what sequence ) should be changed to cut a perfect circle?
And, BTW, what about the action/reaction to the TORQUE of the Router? How do we take that into account?
Old, Retired Guy in Vermont.
Now: If the Least Likely to require a “Adjustment” is the rotationradius=140" - Which of the others (and in what sequence ) should be changed to cut a perfect circle?
whichever one is wrong 
this is only half-joking. There are lots of ways to attach things to the
machine, and variations of only a few mm between motor placement compared to
what the machine thinks they are can translate into up to 2x that much error on
the machine.
There is also work to improve the calibration and add additional correction
factors.
So look at those numbers and check to see if the result looks correct or not.
And, BTW, what about the action/reaction to the TORQUE of the Router? How do we take that into account?
We don’t, the torque of the motor should rotate the sled, but sled rotation
should not affect it’s position. The bricks being on the bottom counter the
rotation from torque.
David Lang
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Welcome, @Wallace_Johnston. There is a LOT of great information in these forums.
The “How To: Get Calibrated!” wiki is excellent. I recommend going through all the wiki pages, actually. Also, dlang’s “List of sources of error”, and these benchmarking related threads: Triangular Linkage Evaulation Criteria and Measurements, BenchmarkAccuracyTest20180716.xlsx and benchmark database, might be of interest to you.
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done, step by step 3 times, because I confused the top with the bottom.
has become smoother, however it is still not a circle
will try this solution, but i dont understand, should i only do from the step 9 (aka wiki)? or early?
How close are you?
Do any of the numbers in the calibration look off to you? If so, you can tweak them to try to fix the circle
if they were, I would understand where to look 
The assembly instruction needs to be updated.
Use the second link. As long as you put the same link on 12 o’clock to feed out, the chain length will be correct.
You are saying to put the second link on 12 o’clock, if using the second link on the ring?
The calibration instructions say to put the first link on 12 o’clock. Due to the safety issue you linked to, which plenty of others have experienced, should we suggest changing the calibration and assembly instructions to use the second link for the ring kit?
We would have to reference different instructions specific to ring and linkage. I use dlang’s metal linkage and must connect to the first link.
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Yes, that is what he is saying.
This has been suggested, but apparently not implemented yet.
I believe @dlang has a solution for this, but I don’t remember where I saw it. He will likely weigh in shortly.
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@Keith
Or, could you do it like @heades has done but use the 3rd, or 4th?, link on 12 o’clock? I like how he put the pin through the chain, which will be safe and prevent the issue that @Gero linked to.
You could. The important part is that you put the same link where it connects to the pulley traveler at the 12-o-clock position when you feed out the chain. The only thing I would be concerned about is whether the link ends up in the same position as when the cotter pin is put between the links. If it does, then you should be golden.
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I’m glad I randomly looked at this thread. I’ve got mine like the OP. I’m just finishing up the build, so no trial cuts yet. Still time to avoid one issue
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