I’ve noticed using the recommended Ridgid router that it uses a locking part referred as the “Depth interlock lever” that is attached to the plunge mechanism. The lever doesn’t allow the plunge depth to be adjusted unless it is “unlocked” according to the manual, otherwise it is slotted into a tab to prevent movement. The problem I am finding is that the “unlocking” of the lever does not stay if the finger isn’t pressing the lock.
Is there a way to disable it entirely?
Apologies if this is a braindead solution. The Maslow kit is the first time I have used any sort of router.
There is a screw to adjust the tension of the locking lever. Back it off until the adjustment screw can still move the router, but is very nearly locked.
The depth interlock lever (what you have circled there) interlocks with the router spindle, causing movement of the lever itself to be carried to the router spindle. It prevents free movement of the spindle; if it’s not engaged, the spindle can move freely in and out of the base. When it’s engaged, it only allows movement via the screw attached to the adjusting knob (or the Z-axis motor).
The lock lever assembly (what @blurfl has circled) is called the Lock Lever Assembly. This is the part of the assembly that prevents any movement when locked. (Even via the screw).
There is a screw to adjust the tension of the locking lever. Back it off until the adjustment screw can still move the router, but is very nearly locked.
The Depth Interlock Lever is spring loaded. So loosening the nut will prevent the Lever from snapping back into its tab?
Blockquote The lock lever assembly (what @blurfl has circled) is called the Lock Lever Assembly. This is the part of the assembly that prevents any movement when locked. (Even via the screw).
Does that mean the Lock Lever Assembly needs to be unclamped when I’m using it with the Z-Axis?
One thing to be aware of is that on one of my routers, the orange tab part that locks you on the height adjustment can get stuck and not move smoothly within the housing. I was trying to adjust the height on the router and found it wouldn’t make a difference on how many times I turned the knob. I disassembled it all and found the orange part still stuck forward (the spring didn’t push it back) so it wasn’t engaging with the threads on lead screw.
I just recently made it through this confusion (and I have used routers for years:) The clamp is meant to make the depth adjustment “set”. It PREVENTS adjustment when clamped and the z-axis is designed to FREELY adjust the depth. These functions contradict one another. blurfl and TheRiflesSpiral (i believe) are trying to have you have a little less slop and a little more support by having you minimally clamping it- but so it can still move. I completely removed the clamp and installed a bolt and nut that I can adust with a hex key. I ran mine successfully (for a short time) with no clamping whatsoever. I don’t know if it is bad to do that.
No, it must be snapped into the tab. There’s no nut or adjustment to this part.
Ok. So I’m assuming the Depth Lock Lever will prevent the router from slipping out of the collar, but at the same time, loosening the nut on the clamp will help with the router Z-Axis to move freely.
This is all much easier to understand when you have the router in your hands.
I can only set aside 1-2 hours a night on this project. I wish I had played around with the clamp’s nut adjustment in relationship with the Depth Lock Lever before mounting the router onto the sled.
Correct. It’s also the lever that moves the spindle up and down in the collar, as it’s attached to the lead screw, which is turned by the z-axis motor.
They’re not related. The clamp nut adjustment is on the clamp. The depth lock lever has no adjustments.
Did you use nuts/bolts to attach the router? It shouldn’t be difficult to get the router off the sled… it’s important to understand how this works before you start cutting; the z-axis seems to give people more issues than anything else (besides some calibration stuff, maybe).
Yes and I just had the tab slip out leaving the bit fully plunged when it should’ve lifted out. It is meant to be overcome by a certain amount of resistance as a mechanical fuse. I am wondering the trade off on safety (if I found a way to disable this “fuse”) when the material was getting burnt by the collet of the router… ?
) The clamp is meant to make the depth adjustment “set”. It PREVENTS adjustment when clamped and the z-axis is designed to FREELY adjust the depth. These functions contradict one another. blurfl and TheRiflesSpiral (i believe) are trying to have you have a little less slop and a little more support by having you minimally clamping it- but so it can still move. I completely removed the clamp and installed a bolt and nut that I can adust with a hex key. I ran mine successfully (for a short time) with no clamping whatsoever. I don’t know if it is bad to do that.