Your linkage kit is great, it was easy to put together. I enjoyed your detailed instructions. The washer placement in the pictures is inspired by your documentation. Its was one of my considerations in not gluing, to have the Z under the block as an option. I think it may look better under the router. Cant wait to get my Maslow and play with it.
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Thank you for the kind words! I hope you get to start cutting things really soon!
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As a follow-up up to what that part I was cutting was for, here’s how it was used as a template to cut a hole in the tiny house wall for a window. So far I’m very pleased with how well it is going. There is no way I could have cut a hole this accurately into a wall by hand, but with the template it was easy.
From inside the house:
From outside the house:
I haven’t cut through the insulation between the two yet, but the template includes holes to drill through for pins which align the two sides so they should be aligned inside and out
EDIT: Everything looks good 
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Here are a couple pictures of my linkage kit put together on my Maslow. The linkage kit from #pillageTHENburn is excellent and goes together very easy.
Right now the linkage system is working great just having a little trouble with the chain length auto calibration feedout feeding out different chain lengths from left and right motors.
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Is that a large fan I see mounted on the back to cool the motor shield? 
Yeah it’s a pretty big fan. Could’ve used a small one but this popped up for $4 on Amazon and cools it easily on low setting
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Beautiful build!
I have been trying to recreate the issue you are seeing where one chain extends further during the automatic chain calibration process and I can’t make it happen.
Will you do me a favor and run the same test I am just to see if the same thing is happening? What I have tried is to mark the vertical link on each sprocket then run Actions -> Calibrate Chains Length - Automatic and afterwards check that the amount of chain measured out in the terminal is similar for both chains, and that the marked links end up in similar positions. On my end at least it seems like they end up in the same spot (well mirrored of course) to at least the degree that I was able to make them face straight up
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you may also want to take a video of each motor moving to see if they jump or
stutter along the way.
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When I was facing the same issue, it was due to wrongly interpreting the calibration process. At some step the routine says to put the right chain with one linkage at 12 o’clock on the gear, at the same time it says the position of the left chain does not matter. But it does, it takes into account the chain already measured during previous steps. So if you end up restarting the calibration process not from the first step, it is incorrect. Also before starting the calibration process, you need to change the manual values if you do not have a standard size frame. Just my experience
Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
I did see that it takes into account the left chain length from earlier in the process but I skipped that step and used the Actions -> Calibrate Chains Length - Automatic to feed out chain.
Seeing your pictures shows me that I was putting the sprocket link at 12:00 high relative to the floor but I see that you are putting the sprocket link perpendicular to the motor not perpendicular to the floor. The original instructions had motors that were parallel to the floor in the pictures so it’s different now with the motors on the sloping angles. I still wouldn’t think that would screw up the fact that the feedout should be mirror images would it?
I watched the motors and they weren’t skipping or stuttering
This really puzzles me. How much is the difference? Which one is longer? Which one is correct? Is this happening while the sled is attached, or while the unattached chain feeds out? The chain skip with the sled attached is loud, but happens too fast to see clearly.
Does anyone know when you are doing the auto chain length calibration is it intended that you put the sprocket vertical perpendicular to the motor or vertical perpendicular to the world (the floor)?
Thanks
when you say you made them face straight up are they supposed to be perpendicular to the motor or to the floor?
I am finally free tonight so I am going to try to recalibrate and see if I can get it to work because I have some exciting things I want to cut and use the new linkage kit!
perpendicular to the floor.
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I always do it this way. The difference would be moving your 0,0 point a little up or down the sheet, probably not a big deal.
It is actually a big deal, a 1mm difference in chain position to the middle of
the work area translates to about a 2mm difference in sled position at the top
of the work are, so being off 1/2 a tooth would mean being off ~1/4" at the top
(and a 1/4" in the other direction at the bottom). This is assuming triangular
kinematics. With the stock kinematics, it becomes an error that calibration
’counters’ with other errors, which cancels out in the center, but doesn’t as
you move away from the center.
If you look at the pictures bar posted above it just looked like he put a mark on the tooth perpendicular to the motor. that’s why i am confused
We’ll have to wait to see what Bar says. The pictures in the calibration steps of GC show using the 12 o’clock tooth relative to the horizon. Perhaps those will need to be updated as well.
In the original design the motors are horizontal. Now they are aligned with the arms. If they are turned around the centre of the output shaft, 12 o’clock (old pictures) should be still valid.
In the new pictures, is seems to me like 1 1/2 chain links are added to the 1649.99mm feed out.
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