Understand,
Can I hone out the belt anchor holes slightly? This would be the best remedy in my setup
Understand,
Can I hone out the belt anchor holes slightly? This would be the best remedy in my setup
Ian Tolond wrote:
Can I hone out the belt anchor holes slightly? This would be the best remedy in my setup
yes
David Lang
UPDATE:
Does this fitness level indicate a 1mm variation? Practically,
Maslow-serial (5).log (32.9 KB)
How does this manifest on projects/cutting jibs?
I thought perhaps, with the vertical orientation and the floor not being technically level, this was impacting fitness accuracy. However, after running another calibration, there was no variation.
The frame was built to the Maslow PDF specification size (metric), however, out of 15mm marine ply (as it is almost impossible to obtain other materials where we are) - the frame was levelled, then a laser level was used to ensure anchor points were aligned horizontally and vertically with reasonable accuracy.
So I am unsure why the fitness result is lower than expected.
the machine does not need to be level with the earthâs surface. âlevelâ for the maslow is the plane of the spoilboard (it doesnât matter if itâs flat on the floor or 70 degrees up against a wall)
where are your anchors relative to the top of the spoilboard? are they all at the same height above/below the spoilboard, or are different ones at different heights? (this can all work, but it means things need to be set differently depending on where the anchors are relative to the plane of the spoilboard)
The images attached are for the setup - the anchors are aligned l (used a laser level to align vertical centres and horizontal alignment) given the frame design the anchors are wider apart than the for the vertical
Eyeballing, it looks like the frame is in the region of 2900x2400? And the centres of the anchors about 2800x2300? Thatâs a bit small for a full sheet IMO.
And also the anchor points arenât offset to the height of the arms at all?
Offsetting the anchors to match the arms is likely to help, as would be moving the anchor points out so they are a little wider at least.
As @dlang said:
Have a play with the frame config for what would work for you - I think getting the attachment points out to somewhere in the region of 3600mm in X would likely help quite a bit too.
I believe some vertical users also have the workpiece offset slightly lower in Y for actual cutting, though Iâve not done vertical myself so YMMV.
Ok, that looks like the anchors are at the level of the spoilboard, so the
default Z offsets and 0 spoilboard thinkess would be correct
assuming that the center rectangle is a 4x8 area, it looks like you are a bit
taller than stock (not a bad thing)
Iâve lost context here, what is your retraction force limit? did you
sand/lubricate the spools to find how low you can make this limit?
David Lang
Currently, the tension is set to 800; the factory was 1300. For my info how does setting tension effect accuracy and fitness. Tension dropped to 700, havent tried lower- not sure what i should be looking for when adjusting tension numbers
anchor points are 2880 x 2375 (aligned) the spoil board is centred to the anchors. Frame was built based upon the design Maslow Frame Metric frame PDF attached (with exception of using 15mm marine plyboard)
Based on my appreciation of the drawing, overall height of the frame is 2400 +38+38mm - 2476mm whilst the width is 3000m [3000x2476mm]
Taking into account printed anchor mounting flange and centre point for anchor pin - the above mentioned anchor centres are pretty close to the mark @ 2880 x 2375 (give or take a little).
however you are advising 3600 is best - why does this not reflect in the supplied drawing/s? and if this is my situation how exactly, short of building a new frame, would this be achieved?
Maslow+Frame+Metric frame.pdf (142.4 KB)
Ian Tolond wrote:
anchor points are 2880 x 2375 (aligned) the spoil board is centred to the anchors. Frame was built based upon the design Maslow Frame Metric frame PDF attached (with exception of using 15mm marine plyboard)
Based on my appreciation of the drawing, overall height of the frame is 2400 +38+38mm - 2476mm whilst the width is 3000m [3000x2476mm]
Taking into account printed anchor mounting flange and centre point for anchor pin - the above mentioned anchor centres are pretty close to the mark @ 2880 x 2375 (give or take a little).however you are advising 3600 is best - why does this not reflect in the supplied drawing/s? and if this is my situation how exactly, short of building a new frame, would this be achieved?
unfortunantly documentation has not kept up with new learnings.
if you take a look at the tool I posted earlier
http://lang.hm/maslow/maslow4_frame.html and put in your dimensions, you will be
able to see the area that you should be able to easily cut.
what you should be able to do is to add 2x4 or 2x6 extensions of the frame out
from the corners (striaht out at the bottom, angled at the top) thicker is
better and attach to the exiting frame 2x4s so that they canât flex. It wonât
hurt to have the anchors 1.5" up from the existing wasteboard (just set your
spoilboard thickness to -37mm)
when you go to use them, make sure they arenât flexing as the belts pull tight.
you want the bottom anchors as level as you can because their line defines what
horizontal means to the maslow and you want it to match the skirts you have on
your frame, the top ones are less critical (the calibration/find anchors step is
specifically working to find where they are)
David Lang
Ian Tolond wrote:
Currently, the tension is set to 800; the factory was 1300. For my info how
does setting tension effect accuracy and fitness. Tension dropped to 700,
havent tried lower- not sure what i should be looking for when adjusting
tension numbers
you want the tension set as low as you can and have the belts pull tight
reliably
if the machine hits the current limit while the belts arenât tight,
the measurement of belt lengths for that point will not be correct
but the harder you pull, the more the belts will stretch, adding a subtle amount
of error to the measurement.
800 is pretty good.
if you can setup to record a video of the machine as you run calibration, we can
all see if any of the belts look slack as it is trying to measure them
David Lang
So I understand let me paraphrase: (based on my table as noted)
The top anchors show be extended by ~300mm either side to facilitate 3600mm between centres. keep the angle consistent to what is currently aligned to the centre of the spoilboard?
for the base anchors - they can extend parallel to the spoilboard level by 300 mm each.
Does this mean the base anchors will not be aligned tot he top anchors?
Can you clarify this
it would really help for you to take a look at that web page
this is if you extend the belts out to 3600 x 2675
the white grid is every 100mm
the black rectangle is a 4x8 sheet of plywood, the green area is where it will cut without the arms/belts hitting each other.
this is 2880 x 2375 (your current setup)
This is if you just went straight out to the side 3600 x 2475 you get this
you see how if you just go wide without going up the problem areas at the top and bottom start to get in to the cutting area?
There is no one perfect frame size. from your photo it looks like you have room to go up as well as out. if you play around with the page, you will see that wider is not always better (in some ways 11 ft wide x 8 ft high is better than 12 ft wide x 8 ft high, but if you can go to 9-10 ft high it helps a lot
as I said, you can go a little outside the green area and probably not notice, but the more bands you go outside of the green, the more likely you are to have problems. And with a vertical frame the top center is harder to get to than a horizontal frame (pick something reasonably heavy up by two ropes and see how much harder it is as the ropes get closer to horizontal. As a result, many people with vertical frames will set their workpiece a little bit below the center to make it easier for the system at the top center
play around with this page and find dimensions you are happy with in your shop. Itâs more important for the anchors to be solid and not flex under load than for them to reach a particular dimension but going out a foot or so (300mm) to each side and up a foot or so on the top looks pretty good.
Gotcha