Jason's Build Log - 12' top beam 30" above - Hoping to cut sheet aluminum to custom sizes

Yeah we buy the metal pre-coated, but I’m glad to hear that heat won’t be a problem. I will pick up a track saw and blade this weekend and try adapting it to my Fletcher vertical cutter. Awesome idea, thanks again. I saw someone make a vertical cutter on the back of a maslow frame too, I will look at that thread again and make sure I don’t want to do it that way. Appreciate the advice from someone who does this regularly.

Jason

1 Like

these are the blades I use, make sure they fit the arbor of your saw. they are smaller than the typical 6.5" blades, but you just plunge them deeper. Most of the time I never cut anything thicker than 1/8" aluminum so smaller blades work fine and save $$$

Quick Update: The blade is here and the saw and track are inbound. Home Depot takes 8 days to “Expres ship” my saw and tracks for store pickup, Amazon would have had it here in 2 days…live and learn.

I have ordered the Metal Maslow kit and I picked up the lumber for the frame this morning. On a side note, the boss said let’s go ahead and grab the Maker 300 3D Printer while we are at it. :slight_smile: What’s one more complex machine to learn on the fly…right? LOL I will post build pics along the way when something interesting happens. Most of what I will be doing has already been done.

12 Ft. Top Beam (Metal Bar) 30" above top edge of cut area.
Metal Maslow sled and Z-axis
Counter-weighted chain tensioner
Vertical Track Saw on back of Maslow Frame

I have a ton of production work today but I plan to at least measure and cut all the parts for the frame. I’m like a little kid waiting for Santa to arive.

Jason

My Metal Maslow kit arrived today, WOW. I ordered it Tuesday afternoon and it is here Thursday. Impressive! Now I really have to work on my frame.

1 Like

I know I read a post detailing which Aux port did what, but cannot relocate it now. Anyone have a link? Not sure where to plug in the cooling fan, power shut off relay, etc. I love that the Metal Maslow came with a smoke detector. :slight_smile: It’s like they know me…

Frame is 50% complete, electronics have been set up and tested, today was spent cleaning the areas where the Metal Maslow and Maker 300 will go.

Jason

Did you mean this one?
https://forums.maslowcnc.com/t/maslow-electronics-wiring-diagram-for-aux-outputs/1850

Peter

1 Like

That will work, thanks Peter. Lots of things come in the metal Maslow kit that aren’t in any instructions but I’m figuring it all out.

Jason

Finally an Update - Things slowed down with Covid-19 but we finally finished the room for my Metal Maslow. We put sound dampening material inside in hopes of keeping our art studio as quiet as possible.

@aluminumwelder Roland, the track saw and blade combo you recommended cuts our metal beautifully, I cannot thank you enough for the recommendation!!!

Here are some progress pics, basically a stock frame with 10.5" taller front legs, and the 1.5" 12-foot metal top beam through-bolted on top of the 10’ top 2x4. I added some braces and left enough of a lip to rest the top beam on for easier installation, it is very sturdy and I am pleased with it so far. Now to add and hook up the electronics. - Jason

End of day shot, Monday, calibration and testing. Excited a scared all at the same time.

1 Like

Success, after a bit of trudging through the calibration process I m making successful cuts. These will be a series of hexagonal picture frames that will be filled with moss and hung in a geometric pattern. There is a 1/4" rabbet for a foam backer milled into the back edge. They measure basically perfect on all sides, larger stuff will be cut today. :slight_smile: I still need to put my dust collection system on, but I am super happy with how it is working!


1 Like

Day 2, more of the same type stuff, just a little bigger and more detailed. This is for a Mother’s Day present, it will have pics of the 4 kids with mom in the heart in the middle.

1 Like

Jason,

Your setup is almost exactly what I had in mind for my garage/workshop. Hope to get started on the project in mid-May when my workload tapers off a bit for the summer.

A couple of questions. First, you went with the Rigid router rather the Makita router that’s a standard part of the metalmaslow kit. Any particular reason, and could you offer any feedback on that decision?

Second, do you have a photo of your complete frame that might show how you did the framing behind the 4x8 bed?

My intended use is cutting templates for outdoor deck & dock furniture for use around the house and cabin.

Jeff

1 Like

I would stick with the Makita router, the Rigid router is “head heavy” and caused me to have to modify my linkage, the Makita will be much smoother to setup. In hindsight I didn’t need the horsepower or RPM that the Rigid gave me, I will likely replace it with a Makita in the near future.

I literally built the stock frame from the Maslow plans, with 3 simple changes:

  1. I made the front legs 10.5" taller than designed, which when you add the 1.5" metal crossbar, it sets your motors 1 foot above stock which should be an optimal configuration…my cuts so far make me think this is true.
  2. I added small supports under the arms that hold up the top bar to support the extra weight of the metal top bar.
  3. Metal top bar is drilled and through-bolted to the stock wooden top crossbar in 4 places to keep the assembly super rigid.

The hardest part was rigging up the counter weight system (still not happy with mine, but it works) and getting through the initial calibration. Once i got done, I have been nothing but happy with the machine.

I will help in any way I can, and will grab a pic of the back of my machine once it is done with it’s current cut.

Jason

This is great feedback.

Regarding the router, staying smaller was the direction I was intending to go, just wondering if there was something I was missing. This is very helpful confirmation.

I’ve found the plans for the standard frame, so with your clear description there is no need for a photo (but thanks for the offer). Metalmaslow is now sold out of the 12 foot metal bar, and it doesn’t look like he’s going to be making more. So my thought, adapted from something I read somewhere on this forum, is to use 12’ lvl to a got a long and rigid top bar. That should a pretty straightforward adaptation to what I see in your photos.

Thanks for the feedback … your posts are incredibly helpful.

Jeff

1 Like

As far as I can tell, the main purpose of the Metalmaslow top mount bar was the possibility that it would allow skipping custom calibration. If custom calibration is being done anyway, then any other 1.5" steel tubing of the same thickness should be just as good, no?

Does anyone know the thickness of the Metalmaslow bar?

Agreed. This is almost the same set up I’m considering, so it’s very nice to see someone already do it successfully, and in 2020.

I would be interested in hearing about what kind of accuracy you’re getting across the full sheet.

Thanks, Joe. I can pick up a 12’ long 1 3/4 x 7 1/4 LVL for about $35. So they’re not free, but I’d be glad to pay the money if the extra rigidity mades a difference. Any thoughts?

You are totally right, I misunderstood what you were referring to and had already edited my post after realizing what you meant. 12’ LVL does look like a good option!

Thanks. Looking at Jason’s pictures above, I was thinking a 12’ LVL would be reasonably close in size to the 2x4 plus metal bar that he used for the top rail. I’d probably go with the metal bar if one was available, but maybe the LVL would be a good substitute.

I love the level idea, and I think built the same way it would be just as stiff as the metal top bar. I would still try to have the original wood top beam and through-bolt the level to it to make absolutely sure it is rigid across the entire length. If the bar sags down in the middle, it can bounce and flex and reduce your accuracy. Remember you will also have 5-10 lbs of counterweights hanging off the unsupported center of the beam.

@joe_j I haven’t cut anything full span yet, the closest I have come is the calibration cuts which cut short lines in all four corners and they were all right where they were supposed to be. The large piece with the heart in the middle was 28" x 28" exactly as designed, and the photo cut-outs were exactly 5x7 so the pictures fit perfectly. I will have some larger projects that will truly test the limits soon, I will post back once I get them cut. For me, if I design it to a specific size and it cuts the material that size, I am happy. I also have to cut some 35.5" round frames which should tell me a lot. I will do them 2 up so it uses the entire sheet and we shall see if I have circles or ovals. :slight_smile: The only problem with this test will be that it won’t be doing any cutting in the problem areas (top center and bottom corners).

I was expecting to be within 1.5mm or thereabouts, but my first cuts were right on the money. It pays to be accurate when constructing your frame, most important is that the sheet you are cutting and the top bar are perfectly level and that your chains are parallel to the work surface. If you nail those two items in construction and then measure very accurately during calibration you will be good.

Let’s see some build pics from you guys. :slight_smile:

Just for kicks, here are the hexagons I cut the other day all finished and ready for sale.

3 Likes