Cool, thanks for the information. It will definitely help as I move forward
Could another option be to wax the underside of the sled with Johnson’s wax? I use this on my table saw and band saw to help with friction and surface rust over time. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johnson-16-oz-Floor-Polish/3384826
I’ve been playing around with the the idea of going smaller. I think it’s worth exploring. 18" was seemed like a good idea when we had to attach the chains to the brackets and it was more stable when they were further apart, but now that we are moving away from those brackets I think it’s time to revisit the sled size.
Thanks Bar. Do you think something like 12 inches is an option? Sure would cut down on the drag everyone seems to be concerned about.
12" feels a little small to me, but I haven’t tested it. My instinct is to start somewhere around 15" or 16"
Because of the squared term in the equations I think we should see significant changes in behavior without going super small.
if you have a 6" diameter sled, then you will fall in to a 3" wide slot.
sled diameter needs to be large enough to hold the bricks, sled, and chain
attachment. beyond that it’s a balancing act between friction, surface pressure,
and how large a gap it can span
Is there a dimensioned drawing of the new ring?
Suggestion on laying out the sled. For something like the sled I print out a full size print, tape it to the work piece and transfer punch the centers of the holes. Then drill as needed. Printers are surprisingly accurate. I’m from the old days where we laid everything out by hand. If it needed to be better accuracy we used the Bridgeport mill.
Has anyone published a pile of actual dimensioned drawings (pdf’s) of the Maslow parts?
The assorted freeware/open source models simply don’t work with professional CAD packages (I have Solidworks) and it’ll be quicker to CAD up something from scratch, than get the existing models converted in.
I can then get the majority of the parts laser/water cut locally which still works out cheaper than freight, the exchange rate and import taxes…
You can find links to the OnShape models for all of the parts here:
From onshape you can export to SolidWorks parts if you want to work in SolidWorks. OnShape was also founded by a group that broke away from SolidWorks so you might find it easy to use also