Don’t worry about the extra shipping. If you get two we’ll pay for the extra shipping if it’s more.
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May be this is a dump question, but how can we change tool without creating an offset? My image is that I have to take out the router, replace the tool and put it back into the mount. I assume I will move slightly the position of the Maslow cnc and therefore create an offset.
Is it possible to add tool length sensor?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
An offset in the vertical direction? You can either manually reset the zero height by lowering the tool down until it touches the surface of the wood and pressing the “zero” button, or by using a touch plate to do it automatically. We never officially made one, but the board has an extra port to plug things into and one of the things that the community made was a tool length sensor that plugged in there. If there’s enough demand for one I would absolutely consider making an official one.
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My concern is the X/Y offset due to the tool change.
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I have been using a depth gauge to measure the end of my bits relative to the face of the collet adapter for my router. i was lucky that all of the the bits i use allow me adjust the bit insertion so that they all stick out the same distance. there was always some difference in height but it was always a fraction of a mm and no concern to me.
Given that pulling the spindle/router out may be a bit more involved for M4, the easiest path may end up being using a zero plate
There should be no XY offset due to a tool change
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Ordered 1. Can’t wait to get it! Thanks!
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Well you’re at 86% now so……
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can you remove the router from the sled? or is a bit change a ‘detach the belts
and run calibration after you are don’ thing?
You can remove the router + the belts from the sled pretty easily, but it’s possible to change the router bit without removing the sled. The only tricky part is pushing that little button that locks the router spindle from rotating while wrenching on the collet. I’m thinking that I’ll probably make a special tool that locks the router spindle button, but I haven’t done it yet so I didn’t promote it. It’s one of those things that’s on the “This would make life easier, but it’s not critical so I’m going to work on it later” list
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@bar how do we get a vac adapter in the box or is it attached to the base plate and is it just nozzle adapters we need …??
Is there a full kit list anywhere that is coming as something like that may be worth having as an option to reduce shipping (especially overseas)
Great question. We will find a way to make that happen. Especially for shipping overseas shipping overseas it would be silly to send two boxes.
It will probably be as simple as enter your backer number during checkout on our website and get free shipping, but I will make sure the system is clear when the time comes.
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Thanks - it may help if there was a picture of what’s “in the box” for the kit as I’m trying to visualise what is the extra bit I may need for dust extraction…! Also may be worth knowing if we can also get the 3D print files for that sort of thing.
I’ve already priced up a 2mm ABS “sleeve” for the Makita router which is 65mm to fit the 69mm Dewalt standard (just as I have 2 already…!) at a whole £1.56 or $2….
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That is a great suggestion. I will work on getting one of those.
Yes, absolutely. I mean the whole thing is open source so technically you get the 3D printing files for everything 
… but as a pretty low stress part the hose adapter can easily be printed from PLA. We will have files for all the hose sizes to print.
Tell me more about this…that is a fantastic idea. I was planning to design something like that, but if it’s already available that’s even better!
So your design needs the Dewalt 26200/DWP611 router that has a body dimension of 69mm. The Makita RT0701 is 65mm (64.83mm to be precise …) so if you take a piece of 2mm ABS sheet that is 100mm x 200mm and warm it in the oven or with a heat gun on low it creates a cylinder that fits perfectly over the Makita with a 3-4mm gap on the join but now has an external dimension of 69mm… if needed, I can secure it in place with CA glue or double sided tape but expect that it will clamp tight enough to stop any movement.
I can buy this from an engineering plastics online place in the UK for less than £2 delivered, complete with nice rounded corners …!
Make sense …??
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Genius! What an elegant solution.
I try and keep stuff simple !! And if we find the different spindle or router sizes, moving through a lot of the clones they are all in the 62-65mm range so this is easily replicated using 2-3.5mm ABS which is probably about the limit of tolerance you want to be going to before you’re into custom inserts or aluminium sleeves.
I do need to check UK rainwater down pipe for thickness when I get hold of a piece as from memory I know it is 68mm diameter but think it’s nominal 2mm wall, so a piece of that with a split in it will be even easier …!
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I wonder if brass or aluminum shim stock could be used in place of the ABS as well. This material could be sourced from local auto parts stores.
I dont think a small gap in the sleeve would be a problem as long as the router remains centered to the mount.
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IIRC another thing to watch out for is cooling. Bar mentioned that this router
generates enough airflow to cool the motors as well as the router (or something
like that)
David Lang
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@dlang is right that the router cools the electronics too with it’s airflow, but I actually added a dedicated fan to cool the electronics since then. It’s hard to see, hiding in there, but here’s a close up.
It’s probably not necessary, but I wanted to make sure we weren’t dependent on the router’s airflow for cooling. The cooling fan is controlled by the controller so we have the option to turn it on only when the machine is working hard so it’s not constantly making sounds.
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