Got the Raspberry hooked up last week, but only in simulation mode, as I had a car parked in the way of the sled. Need to go through and tighten all nut and bolts, I have zip ties supporting the pulleys supporting the weights, etc., but took a video before moving the tractor in to work on that. Not calibrated just accepted default settings, and attached the z-axis boom. Controlled through phone, via web control.
Watch “Maslow moves” on YouTube
One thing I noticed is where the chain enters the sled it is twisted. Am I supposed to have the cotter pin on the side of the chain like this?
The pin being twisted is nothing to worry about, but a little oil and some working it back and forth on that stiff link would be a good idea
make sure you don’t have the pin through the very last link, it may come apart
there, shift the chain by 1 link on the sprocket and at the pin so that there is
a solid cross pin between the big pin and the end of the chain.
look for dry chain lube options (lots of good options for bike chains), you
don’t want oil that can attract sawdust.
Here’s how I have the pin. The pin goes through the eyelet holes of the last link. The chain does not twist at all doing it this way. Sorry for poor picture.
That kink could cause it to skip over a tooth on the sprocket so definitely try to work it loose as suggested.
the kink also makes the chain shorter, so your position will be wrong.
@tinker That extra length to go to the side of the carriage will need to be added to the effective rotation radius because the chains will end up a little bit shorter than the machine expects that way. I think calibration will take care of it automatically, but it’s something to consider
So like this? I haven’t calibrated yet, am just watching the sled move, check for binding, interference etc. Still fun though!
I had to taper the clevis pin to fit through the last link with a benchtop grinding wheel.
This link is where you want to pass the cotter pin through.
Is this reason to sand inside of ring?
Watch “Maslow ring bearings” on YouTube
You know I could have sworn this is how it was done in the manual but looking at it again I see it is done how kayaker37 had it originally. I may have just assumed that the notches were designed for the pin.
My cuts are off by 1/32 (smaller). Maybe this is the cause. I will check into it when I get to the machine next.
I put mine in like this now (picture shows it pulled out, but otherwise it gets tucked back straight down)