My take on a Sled with No Bricks and Using a Spindle (Lots of Pictures)

I can’t answer that until I read everything :frowning:

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I see

  • Alternative z-axis
  • Brushless Spindle instead of router
  • Pantograph mechanism
  • Ridgid 2200 z-axis problem and possible solution
  • Hazardous dust
  • Dust collection
  • Various materials to reduce sled friction

Lots of info, many opinions. Hard to distill without losing a lot, though. :smile:

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How do you avoid the need for bricks? I must be missing something here.

The main sled base (grey painted) is made from 10mm thick steel plate which weighs about 8kg (~17lbs) then the spindle and pantograph add another 5kg giving a total weight of 13kg (~28lb). I am also going to put another skid made of UHMWPE (a very slick plastic) under the plywood to further reduce friction.

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I haven’t been paying attention to the second batch delivery. Do you have a machine yet? You’ve done more without one (sled and control box) than I have with. I’m just now getting the frame setup. Also, debated using a R Pi3 but read some negative reviews based upon the Maslow sys requirements. If you’ve gotten yours up and running, how well has it worked?

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@Balls

I found it possible with a PI3 -

Do you already own a PI foundation touch screen?

Thank you

Yeah I have my kit, (hopefully) starting on the Frame Today now that the Xmas chaos is subsiding…

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@Bee,
I just got the touchscreen in and I’m actually waiting on a keyboard (too many years with laptops). Once I get that, I’ll finish downloading and installing the new drivers and GC. I’ll read up on your setup more. This is my first time using the R Pi3. Also, I’m not really handy at the whole programming thing so I’m trying to learn at the same time.

@StephenMcG,
I can’t wait to see how you build the frame. I went a little overboard on mine I think. Also, I’m going to see about attaching my linkage the same way you did so that I can skip the 2x4. Eventually, I’d like to go with the same thickness plate for CG purposes on the sled and just add the cutting board material to let if slide easier.

@Balls

If your using the Pi foundation touchscreen you should be able to follow the steps in the KivyPie setup under software. Others are using it with this setup. However for me 800 x 480 is too low of a resolution. As I was unable to get KivyPie to work I can’t say how long the process will take. Under Ubuntu Mate _ I’d budget at least 5 hours. The Updates and Downloads add up.

Thank you

Thanks @Bee. I’m just borrowed a keyboard and will try it out. If this doesn’t work, then I’ll just reload retropie and start designing an arcade cabinet. I may just need to hit up Newegg like you’d suggested in the other thread.

FWW - eventually I plan to offer a preset Pi. At issue right now is chicken and egg. Setting up wifi headless without a connection. Once I have it all ironed out I’ll put out more information.

Thank you

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I have bought a 1024x600 7" touch screen from China which seems to be large enough… Have not tried it in anger yet (still building the frame). The screen was cheaper than the official one and better :wink:

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I look forward to seeing how it works for you.

Thank you

Hi Stephen,

I love what you have done, it looks great. Have you got it running yet?

I am getting my kit in the February release and really like your idea of using a spindle motor and lead screws for the z axis.

Thanks heaps,

Ollie

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I’m also interested in the spindle motor approach. I’d be curious how it worked out for you before purchasing my own.

Thanks for the info. I just ordered the rail and screw system. I’m going to try and use it with the ridgid router. I’m hoping to refine my Z depth as currently I’m getting inconsistent depth on passes which I think might be caused by play in the latch on the ridgid base.

are you trying to run with the latch open?

you should be adjusting the tightness of the latch (under the latch) and
adjusting it so that with the latch closed things can move, but not too much.

you should also have a bungee cord across the top of the router (down to the
handles) to eliminate the backlash.

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No. the latch is closed and I’m using the bungee. I think the issue is the orange tab that locks the spindle portion to the base and screw. The recess in the spindle seems larger than the orange tab(not sure what its called) and it has a bit of play. Its not much play, but its enough that when I do multiple passes at the same depth there always seems to be a slight depth difference that requires allot of sanding. (lines) Maybee Im cutting too deep .13 inch per pass. I also find the ridgid base requires constant cleaning (removing spindle to clean sawdust) to maintain smooth operation.

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does the 500w spindle work?

I have not built the frame yet as I have been too busy with other projects, I hope to get to it soon…

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