I’d like to contribute to the Maslow Project.
I redesigned the frame about 6 months ago, I have had no problems with it and I have done a TON of cutting. This design is good for cutting long/wide cuts (I have used it to make cuts that are a little over 8ft wide) There are obviously more improvements that can be made such as converting it to a counterweight system, but I’d like to share my design as I think that there are some elements of my design that some may find useful given a certain problem.
I’d be thrilled to contribute and if anyone would like any specific angles/measurements I would me more than happy to provide them.
How did you modify your construction to create side supports for the router when it gets to the edges? Any tips on how to adjust it based on material used (1/4" - 3/4"?)
Sorry for the delayed response. I have been swamped with course work. I drew a picture below for the measurements. I also provided a screenshot of the measurements that were given during calibration. Another feature of this design is that the box beam can be moved forward/backward to account for different material thicknesses. (That was important for me to have because I usually cut 4mm but I also may want to cut something that is .75in every now and then.
The point of the box beam is solve the problem of chain angle from ring to sprocket. The box beam allows the motors to protrude outwards to compensate for the additional length between the motors. Having additional distance between motors without the motors protruding out will cause pinch. (Imagine if the distance between the motors was 100ft on a standard frame, the chains would be rubbing and pinching like crazy towards the sprocket.) Hypothetically, one could attach another 2x4 to the other one by using screws but it wouldn’t be as strong and It may not compensate for the chain angle correctly, unless it was calculated (ring to sprocket) If the chain must extend diagonally from the sprocket to the ring otherwise it will cause the chain to “pinch” as the sprocket is turning. (By diagonally I mean that the chain doesn’t go in/out on the z axis) I have pictures of a chain setting that would pinch (bad) vs one that wouldn’t (good)
The box beam can me moved forward/backward by loosening one bolt, hitting the beam with a mallet or pushing it; with the goal of moving it, then proceed to do the same with the other side. A level can be used to gauge straightness.
The eye hooks is meant to support the chain, allowing for it to be easily fed into the sprocket, rather than the chain just dangling and moving it around. The eye hooks have worked perfectly fine for me, however trying something with bearings would be cool. It is possible but unlikely that I just got lucky with the eye hooks, as I have done 24hrs+ of cutting with them.
Thank you very much, some of my earlier posts discuss chain pinch. These posts have others explaining what chain pinch is.
I cut a lot of 4mm plywood, so for my side supports I just used 5mm underlayment. The 5mm underlayment pieces on the sides can simply be unscrewed and easily be replaced with .5in plywood if I decided to cut .5in plywood. (The 5mm underlayment is the darker-brownish plywood)
Side supports must be pretty much the same exact height as the workpiece otherwise the sled will get caught and that will be bad.
Let me know if I am thinking of your question properly, or if I am misunderstanding your question.
I would also recommend sanding the supports to reduce friction as well as sanding/waxing the sled. Doing those things will make for a “smoother” transition from the workpiece to the side supports.
Also, reduce the gap as much as possible. The bigger the gap, the more that the sled could pitch down and bump into the side support, causing the sled to get caught which is not good.
If you measure the side supports well, they can serve as a sort of jig that will hold the workpiece in place, eliminating the need for screws to hold the workpiece; allowing for a safer process.
You are showing a measurement of 25" from motors to the middle of the piece of plywood you are working on. Do you not intend on going higher than that 25" mark in your cuts?
The 25’’ refers to the distance between the motors and the workpiece. I have a workflow where I cut the bottom 2ft feet and then flip to cut the other 2ft. To have a “normal” workflow, you can just ignore the bottom support.
I’m looking to use my M2 to cut out a SCAMP sailboat which requires puzzle joint scarfs, too. Did you have the benefit of cut files or did you design your puzzle joint yourself? - Rick
I bought the DXF files so I didn’t design the puzzle joints. However for the next boat I got rid of the finger joints and chose to use butt joints instead.
