A pair of blocks of hardwood 3x3x2 with a 1/2 hole in it (ideally with screw holes) to glue to the top 2x of the frame.
Or a metal bracket. It may be that some earthquake/hurricane brackets will ājust fitā
I was thinking a piece of U-channel with appropriate holes on all three legs. It would certainly make using bolts into the frame easier as they would go through the 1-1/2" dimension and then the legs of the U-channel would support the all-thread. However, using bolts through the frame, in any of the construction, adds the need for an additional tool (the right drill bit), making this list longer:
but screws could also be used to attach the brackets, perhaps with holes for both wood screws and optional bolts.
most hurricane brackets Iāve seen are stamped thin gauge metal. Theyād be unlikely to stand up to the torque that a length of rod would put on them.
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Remember that they only need to support 30-50 pounds at 8-10 inches of standoff
These are pretty low forces (although high vibration)
You could do a pair of u-bolts on each side, but that would be hard to align
This?
No, hole in the 2" face. The 3x3 face would be glued to the top of the frame
Hereās what I think of when you say hurricane brackets:
The metal in those is designed to work in shear, it doesnāt take much to bend them by hand, and 30 pounds at 8 inches of lever arm would certainly bend them.
I suspect you had something else in mind, though.
There are a lot of different brackets, many of which have bolts/boltholes on them. Many are thin stamped metal, but others are more substantial
I think that an off the shelf item might become cost prohibitive. Especially from the construction area as the engineering requirements that the items must meet tend to drive up cost. Especially when you add terms like āhurricaneā 
That could work, there is good channel that already has holes in it and just needs to be cut to length
Iām still trying to grasp at the concept here of what is trying to be solved with the brackets. This was my latest attempt in depicting what I thought you were saying. Seems like you two are on the same page at least.
Top-down view:
I was thinking that weād want to attach the all-thread to the leg of the frame using the bracket. My incredibly crude drawing is a top down view of the leg (in tan) with the u-channel attached to the left side with the all-thread running through it (vertically in the picture).
What we are striving for is how to attach the all-thread to the frame. Your beautiful drawing brings up a second issueā¦ how to attach the all-thread to the top beam 
I finally understand. Thanks. Is what I drew what @dlang was describing initially?
something like this (I didnāt attach the top beam to the bolts)
as for attaching it to the top beam, simple holes through the thin direction with nuts and washers should be good enough (and if it ends up not level, either shim the mounts on the frame, adjust the legs, or cut the bottom beam to match what the machine thinks is level)
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Picture was worth a 1000 words (and 18 posts in between). I didnāt realize the two blocks were for different sidesā¦ thought they were used for just one side.
So in my drawings, it would be something like this:
@dlang with the top 2x4 of your frame (the purple one), is there a reason you put it on the end grain of the vertical members? Seems like putting it on the front surface would make for a more secure screw attachment. Given the motor-supporting top beam would be in front of it, there should not be any interference issues.
Exactly (1234567890)
The top 2x4 of the frame is full width (so the weight is always wood to wood not hanging on fasteners and there are blocks under the corner
