…which brings up the next question. I am assuming that the belt ends are anchored in the spools, but what happens when the belt is fully extended? Does the tension mechanism sense this?
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Another question that comes to mind: if someone wanted to build a Maslow4 Supersize for routing much bigger pieces (or just because convenient anchor points are farther away), how hard would it be to redesign the spool assemblies to hold more belt?
Credit to Belt Getting Stuck Issue and Solution thread for getting me thinking about this.
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Okay,
hold on for a second. I think Bar needs to clarify some points. We need more information to decide the basic measurements for the frame.
I will open a new topic, because I think this will be some crucial information for the maslow community.
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This is a typical misconception. surface area doesn’t equal friction force. friction force is only calculated by the coefficient of friction (my/mü) and the weight (normal force). So either you make the frame more heavy or you put some rubber underneath of it.
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Currently we do not detect that. It wouldn’t be too hard to detect because we could monitor for when the motor is moving the belt out, but the belt is actually moving in
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not hard, but it would be the entire arm that gets redesigned. there is no
clearance left between the belt on the spool and the idler gear.
I’ve been thinking of a few things, and I think that when the injection mold
dies wear out and need to be replaced for the arms and spools, the new ones
should be changed for several reasons (details to be put in a separate topic)
David Lang
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the frame is significantly heavier than the sled
this would not be completely reliable. When I first assembled the machine as was
trying to extend the belts, I would sometimes push them in a little bit to get
some slack to start extending again.
David Lang
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Hi,
I will go for the option to mount the anchors directly to the wall. The width of my workshop is 4,27m and I have about 2,80m space between the wall and my network rack. So it should be almost maxed out.
And now look what I have found in the “Baumarkt”:
A door hinge with a 10mm axle for 2,79€. I love to 3D-print stuff, but this thing is just perfect. 
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What a find! That’s perfect I’ll be looking for them, they look mint!
Do you have a link …? Like @Dan_Bunby I can see how this can help with mine and easier than fabrication for the floor mount !
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I did find these on amazon https://amzn.eu/d/7Gk4zbD
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On Amazon US, I could find lots of those, but with a 5/8" shaft - too big unless you made a better end mount for the belt. Plus it has no way to positively retain the belt and keep it from working its way up the shaft. I’d at least drill it for a hairpin retainer like Amazon.com .
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Or add a stop collar like this Amazon.
here is the onshape link, I need to double check the dimensions for the slots
David Lang
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3/8 of an inch should be perfect. My hinges are exactly 10mm and a little bit stiff. I will take a 10mm drill and ream the belt ends a little little bit wider.
Another option would be to take some iron angles and put a screw through them. Would look almost the same and you can put a nut on top of the belt end.
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Thats a nice idea!
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I tweaked the slot dimensions to give the needed space and correct separation,
it looks like the result with a 2x4 will be a bit low, but that just means you
have room to put a brace under it and still have everything line up correctly
@bar, with the Z axis all the way down, what is the height of the lowest belt?
David Lang
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Great question! I can measure it for you tomorrow, but I’m betting that someone else can get that info for you even faster
here is the corner with a couple short lengths of 2x4.
it looks like a hunk of 2x material under the corner as a cross brace will put it at about the right height (a little low for the kobalt, and it depends on the thickness of your workpiece and spoil board)
now printing the other 3 (which now have holes modeled into them)
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