Do to limited space in my garage I need to make my m4 frame smaller, like I did with your help with my original Maslow. I really don’t want to lay it on the floor, so based on @bars frame design ( I think it was Bars design) Tried using sketchup to design what I think would work.
below are pictures of what I want to build, it has a 15 degree slant so any advice or if it would even work
please advice
G
Yes, I think that both of those options would work. My only feedback would be to consider making the spoil board a little larger. You might find that the usable work area is actually a little bigger than that.
Edit: Beautiful illustrations btw 
This is the SketchUp of Maslow original frame adapted to Maslow version 4:
Thanks good to know.
G
you will want more distance between the bottom of the workpiece and the bottom
beam, and will want vertical supports between the ends of the beams to limit
their flexing towards each other
David Lang
[quote=“dlang, post:7, topic:19824”]
you will want more distance between the bottom of the workpiece and the bottom
beam,
[/quote
Are talking about the pic on the right or both of them? How much distance do I need from edges of the work space?
G
What is the work area for my 4’ X 8’ table?
probably 1’x5’ or so.
David Lang
@knorrisster you will lose 18-14" in from each side of the table to your workpiece (we don’t have a good feel for how much you can push it, and in part it will depend on if you take the belts down to the frame or have belt anchors that keep the belts close to parallel to the workpiece)
Thanks, I want to use my existing table for the original Maslow. I don’t have enough room in my basement for the 10’ x 8’ frame.
the original maslow requires gravity to move the sled, so it only works angled
relativly close to vertical.
David Lang
My table is hinged so I can position it for horizontal if I need to.
@bar, as we design our frames can we assume that them being square and having exacting side lengths isn’t critical? That is, if instead of 8’x12’ square it was 7’6”x12’ where one side might be and inch or two off, would the M4 calibration routine adjust for these small variations in length? Knowing this would help as I’d like to make deliberate choices to position anchors in out-of-the-way places.
Yes, you are exactly correct. The calibration routine computes precise XY coordinates for each anchor point and doesn’t make any assumptions about them being square.
yes, the frame does not need to be square. Bar was planning to do some testing
with it wildly out of square to demonstrate this.
there isn’t a sharp “works find till 12” from the edge, at 11" it just doesn’t
work" type of thing, as you get closer to the anchor points, it will work less
well, but in a curve that will depend on how well the sled slides on your
material and how sharp your bit is.
David Lang
The floor anchors that we have at AltSpace (the maker space) are at least 12" out of square in some directions and it hasn’t caused any issues at all.