make the bottom of the sleve more solid (as that is where the bottom bracket
will be clamping to) and I think it will work.
David Lang
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Thanks! I’ll make something for it and post pics when it’s done and hopefully it’ll work!
Is the bottom of the PCB board just flat or does it have anything pertruding that’ll need to be considered when making the mount for it please?
That looks like yet another Makita RT0702 clone. Other brands include Katsu, Vevor, ….
Bar mentioned potential thermal issues with the Makita but I am also planning to give it a try as the original Makita is about 1/2 and the clones about 1/4 of the Dewalt.
So, any solution you can come up to make it fit with will be appreciated!
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In the entry you referenced Maslow 4 with Kobalt router - #19 by Ken32960 I have included the source files.
OpenSCAD is free https://openscad.org/ and is much like a programming language. If you read the source files (notepad will do) you can find the diameter of the router and mounts. In OpenSCAD (or Notepad) you can change these and then with OpenSCAN - File/Export the adjusted STL files.
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there are a few things, but none of them very thick, give it 2-3mm from the
board and you should be in great shape.
David Lang
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Okay, so I’ve done it and it’s spot on. I’ll upload the file shortly when I get on my computer.
When the sleeve is fitted there is no movement at all, it’s very snug, I think I might even have to break it if I want it off but it clicked on with only a little force.
This is for the VonHaus router… Not sure if others are identical
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VonHaus Sleeve Maslow4.stl (528.6 KB)
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Looks good !! Is it worth putting a slight ridge on the top and bottom to stop the clamps moving as there is about 3mm of play between the 4 spools in total.
I’ll measure the Fakita tomorrow and let you know what dimensions it is.
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I’ll maybe make adjustments when I get my Maslow. Id have assumed the 3mm would’ve been deliberate so there’s no restricted movement? But I’m not sure.
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Yup, that play is intentional to keep things from binding up
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Hi Roman,
I’m also trying to get the PCB holder onto the European DS26200. are the small added pieces indicating which feet will align. So removing the ones that don’t show up in this picture?
Hey, I’m not sure what you mean?
If you mean you want to cut one the excessive “feet” that hold onto the router, I don’t think it would be an issue.
Hi, I’m new to all these. Received my Maslow 4 in Singapore a few weeks back. I have managed to assemble the parts, except mounting all the components to the router. Getting a suitable Dewalt router is a great challenge here, so I’ll have to find alternatives. In regards to 3D printing sleeves to fill the gap, will there be issues with deformation since the router will be expected to get hot? Will the sleeve become an insulation layer that also prevents proper heat dissipation?
In regards to installing the arms around the router, can I verify the following?
- Is there any fit tolerance between the router and the arm internal diameter, or just a loose running fit will do?
- What is the tolerance for the arm internal diameter?
If the fit tolerance is just a loose fit, was wondering is this tolerance taken into consideration in the calibration process to result in a more accurate calibration?
I was also thinking if there will be issues with the prolong rubbing of the arm internal diameter against the router body, since the belts do need to have a certain tension on all 4 directions, with the arms being plastic and the heat generated with the router running.
I’m considering the chinese spindle option mentioned by @dlang, but there are no readily available bushings or bearings available that fit either the 52 or 65mm diameter spindle. Am thinking of the feasibility of using an aluminum pipe and get a workshop to lathe it to the required ID/OD, with a tight fit on the arm, and a clearance fit on the spindle, with the height at around 20.5mm to fit each arm, and add some lubricant between the ID of the pipe and the spindle, so that the part the rotates is between the ID of the pipe and the spindle, would that be feasible?
2 Likes
Jude wrote:
Hi, I’m new to all these. Received my Maslow 4 in Singapore a few weeks back. I have managed to assemble the parts, except mounting all the components to the router. Getting a suitable Dewalt router is a great challenge here, so I’ll have to find alternatives. In regards to 3D printing sleeves to fill the gap, will there be issues with deformation since the router will be expected to get hot? Will the sleeve become an insulation layer that also prevents proper heat dissipation?
In regards to installing the arms around the router, can I verify the following?
- Is there any fit tolerance between the router and the arm internal diameter, or just a loose running fit will do?
- What is the tolerance for the arm internal diameter?
If the fit tolerance is just a loose fit, was wondering is this tolerance taken into consideration in the calibration process to result in a more accurate calibration?
The software has two numbers that it adds together to define how much length
needs to be added to the belt (i.e. what is the distance from the center of the
router to the center of the anchor when fully retracted)
if the router to arm fit is sloppy, that distance will be more than the preset
value, which adds error into the system
I added belt length error calculation into my manual calibration onshape doc
for a normalish size frame, 1mm of extra belt length results in ~1.8mm of play
vertially, and ~1.2mm of play horizontally.
some or all of that is take up by the belts not being under as much tension
I was also thinking if there will be issues with the prolong rubbing of the
arm internal diameter against the router body, since the belts do need to have
a certain tension on all 4 directions, with the arms being plastic and the
heat generated with the router running.
the injection molded arms are pretty durable (much better than normal 3d printed
material) so I don’t expect them to be affected much by normal heat, but I do
expect that there will be wear over time
I’m considering the chinese spindle option mentioned by @dlang, but there are
no readily available bushings or bearings available that fit either the 52 or
65mm diameter spindle. Am thinking of the feasibility of using an aluminum
pipe and get a workshop to lathe it to the required ID/OD, with a tight fit on
the arm, and a clearance fit on the spindle, with the height at around 20.5mm
to fit each arm, and add some lubricant between the ID of the pipe and the
spindle, so that the part the rotates is between the ID of the pipe and the
spindle, would that be feasible?
my calculation is that with a 52mm spindle, you ideally want 8.5mm cylinders
around it as bearings (just a hair over 5/16") my thought is to see how
something cheap and simple like pieces cut off bolts or 3d printed cylinders do
as bearings (with a 1/2mm or so layer of some slick plastic between the arms so
the bearings don’t fall down and interfere with lower arms)
David Lang
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Hello, I use a DeWalt D26200-QS. It fit perftly with is 69 mm body. It’s 230 V powered.
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That is exactly how I solved it. By bending it down and securing it with tie raps. Haven’t been able to try it out yet, but it should work fine. Having the cords pass each other would also work i guess, but why, they need to go the same way anyway, so why not tie them together.
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Haven’t done any cuts, but just finished building my maslow4.
I decided to use a Makita clone. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005858904242.html
This did mean I had to 3d print some parts for it. The only thing so far im not happy about is that the button to change bits does not line up with the notch in the machine design but I can still get my fingers in there to change bits.
I used some m3 8mm inserts and 16mm stand offs to mount the pcb and still have access to the speed control.
Can just use the original screws that the router came with to attach the new top.
Maslow4 pcb bracket v3.stl (458.1 KB)
maslow4 router sleeve v7.stl (78.4 KB)
Some images 
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larry wrote:
This did mean I had to 3d print some parts for it. The only thing so far im not happy about is that the button to change bits does not line up with the notch in the machine design but I can still get my fingers in there to change bits.
There’s no reason not to rotate the router. the biggest reason for the specified
alignment is to line up the notch.
David Lang
I looked at that, but then the power cord would block the movement. Its really not that much of a deal. but would have been nice to align