Im using the suggested Rigid router with the z-axis motor control from Maslow, ive got buggies over the motor. Ive zeroed out the Z and defined it as zero. The GC thinks its plunging into a depth of 8mm but if i pull out my calapers, it messures out it closer to 11mm. Is there a procedure to calabrate the z motor so i can dial this in?
I believe there is a turns per inch/ mm setting somewhere that could be changed to give a different “ratio”. I would look at some of the alternative Z axis threads as I seem to remember seeing it there but can’t find it ATM. I’m sure others can reply here as well.
Thank you
Did you do the bungie cord to take out the backlash?
The Ridgid 22002 router moves .125" for one turn of the z-axis. With the stock Maslow z-axis motor/encoder and the default settings for the z-axis pitch and z-axis encoder steps, requesting a .125" movement in the z-axis control should turn the z-motor one full revolution. Do you find that you get more than one revolution instead?
If the turns are correct, look to the adjustment of the clamp that holds the router body in the base. It’s a ‘tweaky’ thing to get it just tight enough without being so tight that it restricts the movement. Is it possible that the bit has moved in the collet?
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Wow I didn’t expect the replies to come in so quickly. This is my first post so it’s awesome to see such a active community.
Yeah I’m using the bungees to provide back pressure.
I’m going to let the current job finish and when it done I’ll test some more with the suggestion.
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I also have had a bit of a fight with my Z axis. I thought I would add to this post as it seems to fit. I started marking and measuring this morning. Using 3.17 mm per turn gave me just over 3/8ths of an inch when I raised from zero to 1/2". I am using a Rigid router so used the default to start. I then increased to 4 mm per turn thinking this would move it closer to one half inch. After zeroing it with a mark on the router to make sure I again raised it to 1/2" but to my surprise got less than 3/8 of an inch. I checked that everything appeared to be mechanically OK and then changed the rotation to 6 mm per turn. viola! 1/4". I then re zeroed and raised twice by 1/4" and got 1/2". This seemed backwards to me. After consideration I changed the rotation to 3mm per turn and now have a fairly accurate 1/2" when I raise or lower. It works for me but might be nice if someone knew what might be going on. Maybe someone else has run into this or I have something upside down.